天降 opens with 键 wearing a black 和 white pick-and-pick suit from 汤姆·福特. Also known as sharkskin, this semi-solid pattern woven in an even twill weave looks like tiny steps going up the suit. We’ve seen the pick-and-pick suit 上 键 before, in 来自俄罗斯的爱 和在 世界还不够。与看起来很平坦的纯中灰色相反，拾取和拾取更加有趣。这是服装设计师Jany Temime选择的四款出色布料之一 天降。开幕式充满了动作，而西装在现场是不切实际的。我们不’t know why 键 is wearing a suit, for any other reason than being James 键.
这件夹克非常合身，长度不足以掩盖他的身后，这是过去几年中非常时尚的外观。肩膀挺直但狭窄。 键保持夹克打开，因为紧身剪裁使动作过程变得困难，但是看起来更好的是打开而不是在闭合时束缚。当邦德骑摩托车时，有些夹克是用更长的袖子制成的，所以当他伸出手臂时，’看起来像他的袖子骑起来。它在正面向下扣三个按钮，并在袖口上配三个按钮，而Bond使最后一个按钮保持打开状态。拍打的口袋位于浅斜面上，夹克的背面有单个通风口。这条裤子的正面平整，带有侧面调节器，尽管看起来它们容易滑落。他们被剪得窄腿而低矮，底部也翘起来。下摆很短，但是因为裤子很窄而且他’穿着靴子，他们仍然会折断。
键 wears a white 汤姆·福特 shirt with a tab collar, placket 和 double cuffs. The 汤姆·福特 tie has a complex black 和 silver check pattern that resembles a grenadine weave. The narrow tie is tied in a four-in-hand knot, which fits very nicely in the tab collar. 键 wears a folded white handkerchief in his breast pocket.
键’的靴子是克罗基特& Jones Tetbury model, a black calf, two-eyelet chukka boot with a Dainite sole. Chukka boots, even in black, are too informal to wear with a suit 和 would be better worn with a sports coat or a casual ensemble. But 键 has always been 上e to wear casual footwear with his worsted suits, as Fleming prescribed moccasins for 键 in his novels. Chukka boots have a similar level of formality to moccasin-style slip-ons, though both are equally incongruous with a worsted suit.
In the scene pictured above, 键 does what 键 does 和 adjusts his cuff after getting shook up. But it looks like other parts of his outfit could use a bit more adjustment.
我不知道’认为克雷格（Craig）的宽窄肩膀没有任何帮助。如果有的话，它们会使他看起来比他小。这反过来使他的手臂鼓鼓起来。
如果他不在的话，他看起来会好得多（而且更大）。’t busting out of it.
裤子看起来也很低。
马特，你能解释一下吗‘rise’ to me please?
上升是指从拐杖到腰带的距离（有些人将其测量到腰带的顶部，有些则测量到底部的距离）。
谢谢你的解释。
他的衬衫在这条裤子顶部上的难看折叠是否与低矮的起因有关？有办法避免吗？
是。避免这种情况的最佳方法是穿长高一点的裤子。
I am not really fond of the tab collar here. Not sure why it was chosen, since 我不知道’记得曾经运动过的007。
我可以说一个英国服装设计师可能永远不会选择领子。 Temime可能去了1960年’的外观，但更像是美国的1960年’s look.
漂亮的布，可疑的切割。还有我 ’我对窄领带并不疯狂。一言以蔽之，我更喜欢美丽的结，披覆，总之，罗杰爵士的丰富’s 1970’s ties. So sue me!
It seems as though Temime had More The Man From Uncle in mind than James 键. But everything’太紧了。如果有的话，你怎么能拥有那倾斜的锐利外观’所有的东西都被拉平了。
讨论真的很晚。抱歉。
As to why it was chosen, from the tab collars of 键 (the 上ly character in the film to wear 上e) to the pagoda shoulders of Mallory’的衣服，导演和设计师正在用衣服巧妙地告诉您有关角色的信息。
感谢您的精彩写作，Matt！
Arranging the cufflink in this scene is a subtle equivalent of Brosnan-Bond fixing his tie knot underwater or 上 the tank. But Connery-Bond would never have to do this wearing cocktail cuffs, chosen exactly for that reason: that 键 would never have to bother with his cufflinks when involved in some action stunt. So many well-thought ideas of the past seem to have no place in today’s 键.
The cufflink adjustment is a great 键 moment, reminded me of Brosnan straightening his tie as well.
领口领口似乎最近重新流行起来，也许是由于木板路帝国的结果，但它们并不是’t something that I see the 键 character (particularly his literary incarnation) wearing, I think he’d可能觉得他们有些挑剔。我想袖扣也可以采用同样的论点，Connery和Moore通常不会’不要穿休闲服，但我’我是一个狂热的粉丝，经常这样做（布罗斯南时代的孩子！），所以我’放手。说到这，我希望我们’d get a look at the links with the 键 family crest 上 them, as seen in the recent auction, but we never do, that’s a shame.
关于这件衣服，衣服很漂亮，我只是希望他们能多用些！这是怎么了“Quantum” cut? Wish they’d要么保留下来，要么回到Brioni，要么去找一位英国裁缝，就像穿着Ralph Fiennes的那个人一样！
改版的原因可能是这部电影中有一位新的服装设计师，她“starts from scratch”可以这么说。我喜欢Quantum剪裁，票袋特别是带有英国风情（我没有’就像3键翻盖一样向下滚动（如2键）。它’s nice that 键 goes back to some more interesting 和 键ian fabrics in this film, to me the fabrics in QoS 和 especially in CR looked very boring 和 lacked character. I’我不确定晚餐夹克上的单个通风口及其事实’比黑色多蓝色，但从其他方面来说，天幕式衣柜绝对是一种改进– I hope it doesn’换下一部电影。
(For the sake of novelty if nothing else!) 我可以 agree with just about all of the above comments. Do the producers of 键 movies read the opinions of those with an appreciation for the character’s clothing, heritage 和 how the two should, ideally marry, 上 high profile blogs like this? No, sorry, stupid question.
As Dan mentions, it’s a nice material 和 wasted 上 a dog’s dinner of a suit. The material of the tie too is attractive but, yes, too thin. The tab collar is an odd choice alright as it has no reference to 键’s previous style 和 it’s not that it’s even used account of current fashions as with Moore’s late 1970’s or Dalton’s late 1980’s shirt collar choices). Perhaps it’s just a style Craig pushed for to be included?
在我看来，男人的时尚似乎周期性地达到了一个低点，在这种低点上，使男人的西装变得既定又经典的要领变得过分极端
看到， http://www.clxcc.com/?p=67
目前的诉讼与23年前和23年前的诉讼一样极端和令人不快，对道尔顿的选择也没有太多批评。在接下来的23年中，当任何一种西装可能（令人沮丧）成为2012年的文物时，都会被视为另一种极端时尚，而Brosnan，Moore和Connery（大部分都是）仍将经受时间的考验。
“Do the producers of 键 movies read the opinions of those with an appreciation for the character’s clothing, heritage 和 how the two should, ideally marry, 上 high profile blogs like this?”
It’s a problem that’困扰电影业多年–他们没有研究特许经营的遗产，而是’d通过以下方式重新发明传统元素：
答：最粗略地看一下原始元素，
和
B.随心所欲，尽量少用“A”暗示他们的零星改造在某种程度上是对过去的真正致敬。
-库尔特
天降的许多方面确实符合传统和系列’ heritage. The clothing, however, was hardly 上e of them. Have you heard 珍妮·提米（Jany Temime） in interviews? She says the 键 style is something to respect, but she wanted to do something new that reflects today’s fashion.
PS: If they wanted a 时髦 style of suit in keeping with 键’s status they could have done a lot worse (well, in fact they did!) than have gone back to 1969 和 had a look at Lazenby’s wardrobe.
Once again I agree with David; of the many attempts to make 键 “fashionable”, Lazenby’s的衣柜（减去皱褶的衬衫）是迄今为止最成功的。他在Gumboldt穿着的格纹格纹西装’办公室是年轻，甚至有点年轻的西装的完美典范“rakish”不用越过顶端。诚然，Lazenby是一位前模特’纤细的身材，但事实仍然是紧绷的Craig / 键的想法“脱光衣服”需要放弃。
I thought the 键 suits were poor- the jackets were too short 和 everything too tight. The whole look is more Italian than English. i think the fabrics were supplied by Scabal. Contrast this with Fiennes suits which were extremely elegant. I think these were done by Timothy Everest- he certainly dressed Fiennes for the UK premier
我可以’等着看你解剖马洛里’的西装，因为它们是电影中我的最爱。皮匠’s weren’也不错，但马洛里’s是永恒的，非常敏锐。
My wife was of the opinion a few years back that they should have considered Ralph Fiennes for the 键 role. It seems she may have been 上 to something! From what 我可以 see from the images of his suits in this film, Fiennes does subtelty 和 distinction whereas the Ford stuff is just 时髦 bling.
我相信他是“GoldenEye.” Don’不过，我不知道他是否达到了最终的屏幕测试。
整部电影中唯一的血统人物，其他人的状况都糟透了，这让我想起了60年代的风貌。窄领带可能会变成石榴汁糖浆，这是因为图案产生的效果和狭窄程度，以及像著名的金手指灰色西装一样的扁平折叠手帕！
我只是有一个问题，我一直在寻找汤姆·福特（Tom Ford）的领带，这种领带在这部新电影《天降》中是穿的，但’在任何地方都找不到。有人知道我在哪里可以找到汤姆·福特领带吗？
汤姆·福特（Tom Ford）以较宽的宽度出售了一些领带（或类似领带），但事实并非如此’t sell the ties as they appear in the movie. They sell James 键 ties, which do not match up with the 上es in the movie.
Magnoli Clothiers具有此领带的精确复制品，总部材料为tom ford的一半或1/3’s price.
It’不太准确。从远处看它是一样的，但是编织不是’t done the same way.
我给Magnoli关于这条领带的消息，因为令我惊讶的是，他已经有了领带的复制品，包括电影刚刚发行的事实，我问图案是否100％正确或图案精度是否可以提高，他告诉我，领带尽可能接近原始领带，因为他可以在没有手持原始福特领带的情况下将其置于高分辨率图像中。
As a life long fan of 键 和 also very appreciative of 汤姆·福特s talents I was disappointed in 丹尼尔·克雷格’的衣服。我认为他们看上去更像拉尔夫·劳伦（Ralph Lauren）’s黑标以及“skimpy” 和 as a result cheap. 皇家赌场 和 Quantam did both 键 和 Ford right.
这里’我对此有何看法’值得：尽管我喜欢选择的款式（尽管穿了单排风晚礼服），并且会亲自穿着，但这些款式的合身性不但让人渴望，而且还可以选择将其用于他的英式风度。…
我想知道他是在穿A型还是B型。
Does anyone else think that 键’口袋方形手帕有点太整齐了吗？
Connery是口袋方形的忠实粉丝，通常也会影响笔直的折痕，但是总的来说，它给人的印象是，它被优雅地塞入了他的胸前口袋，而不是巧妙地熨烫和精心放置。
这真的不是’与Connery所穿的衣服没有任何不同。他的手帕也被整齐地折叠了。与皮尔斯·布鲁斯南（Pierce Brosnan）相反，亚麻或棉质手帕应该采用这种方式’膨化的丝绸手帕。我不知道’t think there’受简单折痕影响的任何事物。什么’受影响的是一些漂亮的褶皱，例如3点褶皱或手风琴褶皱。
It is a very beautiful suit, but why is 键 wearing black socks to a grey suit? And 键 is a 绅士 not a show-off. But a real 绅士 would never leave the lowest button of the sleeves open, to show everybody that his suit is bespoke…
键’衣柜最大的麻烦似乎总是源于趋势太过追赶。很好的例子就是Moonraker的超宽翻领和License至Kill的不合身衣服。一世’ve got no problems with the cuts flowing from narrow to wide 和 narrow again with the passage of time, but 键 calls for subtle nods to the shifting trends, not a full-fledged embrace of fleeting fashion. 天降 over-did it, 和 made 丹尼尔·克雷格 look like he was dressed in grey cling-wrap. For that effect, I could get the same thing off the rack at J. Crew. Maybe I’我有点苛刻，但是在这里’s to hoping the costume designer for 键 24 goes a little bit more classic.
附言非常喜欢博客Matt。也许这些日子之一’将有能力对所有这些信息采取行动。
虽然我确实认为西装太紧，但我还是有点喜欢这套西装的颜色和风格。我认为拾取和拾取材料的颜色和纹理看起来很漂亮。用这种材料制成的西装搭配更经典的剪裁和双通风口真是太棒了！
I’我很高兴地说，我已经订了第一套定制西装！经过反复讨论后，我选择了来自荷兰和雪利酒的中灰鲨鱼皮。与Craig在本帖子中所穿的西装相比，它的阴影更暗，浮华性更低。它仍然具有良好的表面对比度，这与我看过的深灰色和木炭鲨鱼皮面料不同，但我觉得它比黑白鲨鱼皮更适合商务。我得到了邦迪安的一些细节，包括绳子袖头，我订购了两对裤子，一个带滑扣调节器，另一个带DAKS风格的调节器。我的知识给裁缝留下了深刻的印象，我和你以及这个博客要感谢Matt！