James 键’奇怪的外套和运动外套

67
Brunello-Cucinelli-摩洛哥夹克-Spectre
丹尼尔·克雷格(Daniel Craig)身穿Brunello Cucinelli的休闲外套 幽灵

The odd jacket finally retuned to the James 键 series in 幽灵 after a twenty year absence. 键 has worn many odd jackets, sports coats 和 西装外套s throughout the series, but why does 键 wear odd jackets sometimes rather than 适合s?

什么是奇怪的外套?它’s a tailored jacket that is not part of a 适合, simply meaning that it does not have matching trousers. A sports coat or sports jacket is an odd jacket that is worn for participation in sports—such hunting or riding—or worn for watching sports. Most sports coats aren’并非今天的这些运动,但它们源于这一血统书。的 西装外套 是一种特殊类型的运动外套,尽管本文将重点介绍非西装外套。

骇客外套
肖恩·康纳利 in a barleycorn tweed hacking jacket in 金手指

为什么有些夹克可以自己工作,而另一些则必须始终是西服的一部分?一切都归结到布上。正式的和类似商务的衣服不能制成有效的奇特夹克,因为奇特的夹克根本不是那么正式或类似商务的衣服。这样就省去了最脏的,光滑的布。如果精纺了,则必须具有较大的图案或较重的纹理。几乎任何花呢,羊绒,亚麻,棉或丝绸都可以制成一件奇特的夹克,只要它不会’没有细条纹或粉笔条纹。细条纹和粉笔条纹很商务,因此对于天生就不适合商务的奇特夹克来说效果不佳。

西装外套的剪裁与奇数外套的剪裁没有区别。某些人更偏爱夹克的结构较柔软,而西装夹克的结构却较厚,但这绝对不是规则。方式一’夹克的合身和剪裁很大程度上是个人喜好,但’无论夹克是西装的一部分还是单独站立,都相同。有些人喜欢宽松的外套,因为它看起来不太正式,或者不适合在下面穿毛衣。如果具有匹配的裤子,则任何奇特的夹克都可以成为西服的一部分,尽管大多数夹克(本来是为夹克量身定制的衣服)都不如裤子,因为它们赢得了’保持其形状或折痕。这样的西装最终将是非正式的或运动的西装,而不是商务西装。

A sports 适合,其中一件运动外套有匹配的裤子
A sports 适合 in Moonraker,其中一件运动外套有匹配的裤子

例如,罗杰·摩尔’s brown tweed 适合 in Moonraker that he wears for hunting with Drax is a sports 适合. The jacket could easily stand 上 its own as a sports coat. The donegal tweed cloth is what allows this. The hacking pockets 和 flapped breast pocket add to the sportiness of the 适合’的外套。但是,即使它有直口袋和普通的贴边胸袋细节,由于运动的布料,它仍然可以单独使用。

Sports coats are often tweed, which is historically worn for country sports. James 键 has worn numerous tweeds, often subtly patterned or plain. 肖恩·康纳利’s 棕色大麦色夹克 金手指雷球和Roger Moore’s brown 破损斜纹夹克 一杀必杀 是类似的精美图案花呢。肖恩·康纳利(Sean Connery)穿两件花呢夹克 钻石恒久远 运动型 Nofolk夹克式细节。在 一杀必杀,摩尔还穿着 浅灰色斜纹花呢夹克。乔治·拉岑比(George Lazenby)穿着 千鸟格花呢黑客外套 Her下’s Secret Service for equestrian sports. Though many of these jackets have sporty hacking pockets, casual patch pockets or horn buttons, it is purely the cloth that makes these proper sports coats. 键’最后一件花呢夹克是蒂莫西·道尔顿(Timothy Dalton)’s 枪支俱乐部格纹夹克 生活的日光.

千鸟格运动外套3
乔治·拉岑比身着千鸟格格纹黑客外套 Her下’s Secret Service

键 has worn a number of warm-weather odd jackets in addition to the traditional tweeds. In 生死存亡 他戴着 棕褐色篮子编织外套 而在新奥尔良。这种夹克的质地,无论是在随身背包编织中,还是可能在亚麻或真丝中都使它成为一件很棒的夹克。在 有金枪的人,摩尔穿着轻便的衣服 大码运动外套 这是受传统花呢检查启发的。它不是用粗花呢制成的,而是用轻巧,开放,平纹的布料制成,适合南亚炎热的天气。在 爱我的间谍,摩尔穿着 Safari夹克的棉质运动外套 在埃及。在 幽灵,丹尼尔·克雷格(Daniel Craig)穿着 非结构化棕色羊毛,亚麻和丝绸混纺外套 在摩洛哥。

间谍谁爱我Safari运动外套
罗杰·摩尔(Roger Moore)穿着棕褐色的野生动物园风格运动外套 爱我的间谍

尽管正确的布料是制作合适的奇数外套的关键,但细节可以使奇数外套特别。一件真正的运动外套应具有运动细节,例如倾斜的hacking口袋,贴袋,波纹管口袋,深通风口,半腰带,喉咙闩锁或边缘膨胀。

Buttons should complement the cloth of the jacket. Tweed jackets should have rustic horn, bone, wood or leather buttons. Lightweight odd jackets should have mother-of-pearl or corozo buttons. Smooth, plain buttons are rarely a good choice 上 any sports coat. However, changing the buttons 上 a dressy 适合 jacket will not make it into a sports coat. Changing the buttons 上 ly works 上 a solid navy jacket, when it can be turned into a 西装外套.

查看杀害格里特威德夹克的信息
罗杰·摩尔(Roger Moore)身着灰色花呢外套 一杀必杀

詹姆斯·邦德(James 键)不在正式场合或商务场合时,穿着运动外套,但仍需要像绅士一样穿着。他白天在社交场合穿着它们,从不夜里穿。如今,运动外套可以在不太正式的商业环境中使用,并且在一天中的任何时候都可以用于大多数社交场合,尽管较暗的运动外套最好晚上穿。奇怪的夹克近来受到欢迎,因为它们可以让人们在今天打扮’一个休闲的社会,而不必担心人们他们会打扮得太多。

Odd jackets can more easily be dressed up or down than a 适合 can. Most odd jackets need a less formal shirt 和 tie than a 适合 needs. 键 usually dresses up his sports coats 和 often wears the same shirts with his odd jackets that he wears with his 适合s. These shirts are usually poplin, but 键 sometimes wears less formal shirts like oxford with a 花呢夹克. 键’s的衬衫带有散开或尖领,尽管许多美国人更喜欢运动外套上的纽扣领。键’s的衬衫几乎总是有纽扣袖口,鸡尾酒袖口或搭扣袖口,尽管邦德(Bond)在 金手指 双袖口可能适合搭配结构更奇特的外套。

生活日光枪俱乐部检查夹克
蒂莫西·道尔顿(Timothy Dalton)在枪支俱乐部检查夹克中 生活的日光

键’s ties with his sports coats are often the same as the ties he wears with his 适合s, but some tend to the less formal side. 键 wears many knitted ties—silk or wool—with his sports coats, which is where knitted ties work best.

键 sometimes dresses down his odd jackets. In Her下’s Secret Service 邦德(Bond)穿着带领领和衬衣的衬衫,搭配粗花呢夹克,显得过时。在 钻石恒久远 他的花呢穿polo衫和polo领毛衣。在 章鱼 他在他的下头戴着黄色的骰子 花呢夹克. 键 never dresses down his sports coats by wearing a shirt without a tie, though it is more acceptable to wear an open-neck shirt with a sports coat than it is with a business 适合.

钻石永远是人字形花呢-半诺福克夹克
肖恩·康纳利 dresses down his 花呢夹克 in 钻石恒久远 带马球跳线

裤子应始终与夹克的重量相匹配。邦德穿着粗花呢夹克,穿着法兰绒和骑兵斜纹羊毛长裤。他穿着轻便的外套,穿着热带羊毛,华达呢羊毛或棉质裤子。如果夹克的结构较松散,则棉裤可以搭配奇数夹克。对于较重的外套,这将是灯芯绒和and鼠皮;对于轻便的外套,这将是华达呢和奇诺绒。夹克和裤子之间的对比越多,衣服就越不正式。但是,至少需要有足够的对比才能轻松地分辨夹克和裤子不是西服。图案较粗的夹克与裤子的对比不需要太多。

Shoe choices with odd jackets is more varied than it is with 适合s. Whilst oxfords are the best choice with 适合s, derby shoes, slip-ons 和 boots can all be excellent choices with odd jackets. 键 often takes out his suede shoes 和 boots to wear with his odd jackets.

67条评论

  1. I sometimes wear a navy-blue pinstripe single breasted 适合 jacket, paired with stone coloured chinos. It works well because the jacket/coat is cut for a slim fitting fashionable look, nipped in at the waist (ie not too business-like).

  2. The checked jacket outfit Dalton wore is perhaps the best of all its tenure as 键. The fit is great -to my taste-, 和 he looks comfortable 和 elegant in it.
    It’肯定被低估了。

  3. Odd jackets 和 sports coats add an air of sophistication to less formal settings. There not as formal as a 西装外套 even can be but they look less intimidating to people who think the moment you put 上 a 适合 your too dressed up. People these days are generally too casual, some don’t even wear a 适合 to a funeral or even an odd jacket.

    • 好点,瑞安。我知道我’我在这里打开一罐蠕虫,但是当我看到这里所有的外套时,我真的感到克雷格’尽管s是最糟糕的(太短,太紧,通常的批评)’s worn in the photo is a lot to do with it. Great colour though, which 适合s him a lot 和 it’我想是一个新手,但是,与其他任何照片一起,’真的不是在比赛中!

    • 只是为了好玩,让’s从最佳到最差对奇怪的夹克进行排序:
      1 – 肖恩·康纳利’金手指的大麦花呢粗呢外套
      2 – 乔治·拉岑比’千鸟格格纹黑客外套
      3 – the Moonraker sports 适合
      4 –《 A View to Kill》中的灰色花呢外套
      5 –《 爱我的间谍》中棕褐色的野生动物园风格运动外套
      6 –Diamonds Are Forever中的花呢夹克
      7 – Dalton’s枪支俱乐部格纹运动外套
      8 – Craig’s Cucinelli jacket

      为了完整起见,我将TMWTGG的格子运动外套定为3.5,其他DAF花呢夹克定为6.5,NSNA的蓝色人字形定为7.5。

    • 奇怪的是我’d完全同意Dan’s在这里排名,并为了完整起见,在中游某处(每人5.5欧元)插入《从一看就杀死》中的棕色大麦花外套和从八达通的开口处略带瞥见的运动外套。

      迟来的祝贺马特(Matt)出色的工作,我’d提请注意邦德演员在007以外的角色中穿着的另外两件运动外套,但之前已在此论坛中涉及;布鲁斯南“Noble House” 和 Moore in “The Saint”。前者在这个迷你系列的第二集中穿着一件美丽的浅褐色千鸟格黑客外套,上面是深蓝色格纹,而后者在第一个颜色系列中则是一件很棒的深蓝色花呢运动外套,带有灰色斑点,在颜色和颜色方面样式看起来很新。

    • The problem with the light brown unstructured jacket in 幽灵 is there is too much waist suppression 和 the jacket could be little longer. 我不知道’介意外套稍短,但《幽灵》和《天降》中的克雷格太矮了。材质和颜色都很棒。

    • 我知道’在这里引起争议,但我’d可能会排名Craig’s jacket higher –至少领先于道尔顿’s check 和 Connery’s DAF tweed. The picture used in this post is probably the least flattering imagineable. It comes across much better in the film, where the relaxed cut also contrasts nicely with the more built-up Ford 适合s.

    • 大卫,

      我忘记了AVTAK的棕色大麦色外套– it is excellent –即使我可以将其排在前三名’我不为棕褐色衬衫/黄色领带组合感到疯狂。这件骇人的外套可能是Connery肩膀较软,久违的兄弟’的标志性GF骇客外套。 OP的防锈运动外套还不错,但是纽扣过于密集,纽扣的位置对于黑客夹克来说有点低–我可能会将其排名在6-6.5左右。

  4. 键’Goldfinger中的带有黑客夹克的衬衫带有袖扣。但它’是的,此后再也没有。 幽灵中的鸡尾酒袖口是Craig / Ford / Temime的好主意。

  5. 那不是’直到我在这里并排看到照片为止,但我才意识到Cucinelli夹克的整体看起来像它’应该是克雷格’s take 上 Connery’s 金手指大麦花呢外套外观。就像他的康乃馨白色晚礼服模仿Connery’s.

  6. An outfit which 我不知道’认为被掩盖的是马克斯·佐林(Max Zorin)’s海军双排扣单夹克,它’s not really a 西装外套 as it looks like it has regular buttons it really just looks like a standard double breasted 适合 jacket, but he pairs it with light grey slacks. Be a good future post Matt.

  7. 马特 first thank you for always answer my questions. It is helping me a lot 和 i am puting together a nice wardrobe in bond style. I would like to know if i could change the linen Summer 适合 for a linen Summer Odd jacket to be used with open neck shirts (just like bond do in all his linen Summer 适合s). Because here in Recife is almost impossible to find 适合s in linen. And as here is very hot, linen cloths 和 open neck shirts are great during the day .

  8. 马特 i have a doubt: i see that bond wear Odd jakets 上 ly during the day, because is a more informal outfit. But in hot places like Jamaica, bond wears light Grey 适合s, that are also a day wear. How should I use an air force blue Odd jacket at night 和 look like James 键?

  9. 让我烦恼的是,每当我穿着运动夹克或西装外套去参加社交活动时。通常有人总是发表评论,为什么你要穿‘suit’或某些变化’很明显我’-穿着对比色的裤子和运动外套。我最近纠正了一个人,说我当时穿着运动夹克而不是‘suit’,当时是棕褐色亚麻布,而我的裤子是深色的烟草棕色。有东西’已经走了这么远,我们可以’t tell the difference between a lounge 适合 和 an odd jacket ?. Matt does this happen to yourself at all ? Have people vocabulary’变得那么狭窄?

  10. 我不知道’通常也不能纠正人,但这是一个我觉得自己很聪明并试图推断我衣着过度的人。通常大多数人,甚至那些对男人知识有限的人’s wear can see I’m wearing a jacket 和 not a 适合. In the end I dress to please myself 和 be appropriately dressed for the occasion.

  11. 嗨,马特,您能推荐一个男人穿着的奇怪裤子吗?’s的衣橱可容纳奇怪的夹克,上衣,针织品等,并能容纳四个季节?

    • 以下是一些我认为最有用的经典。对于凉爽或寒冷的天气:中灰和木炭绒布,小鹿骑兵斜纹布。对于中等天气:中灰,木炭和棕褐色华达呢丁。对于炎热的天气:浅灰色和棕褐色的热带羊毛。

  12. 马特

    我有一件中灰色的羊毛外套,’m pretty sure was part of a 适合, but 我不知道’没有裤子。我的唯一原因’m even considering wearing it with odd pants is because it has 3 patch pockets. Is this sufficient for the jacket to function as a sports coat, or will it look like an orphan 适合 jacket?

    谢谢。

  13. 马特

    即使它’是羊毛,感觉像丝一样,从磨损的标签上我可以看到“ultrafine Super 110” 和 “high twist.”

  14. 我是一个肤色很酷的人。您认为Matt哪种颜色的外套更适合我呢,棕色,深绿色或奶油色/卡其色/棕褐色,哪种裤子适合呢?

  15. Just a question 马特 what qualities do a sports 适合 need for the jacket to stand 上 its own as a sports jacket? Can the jacket from 肖恩·康纳利’s famous 3 piece 适合 from 金手指 be converted/made to a sports coat?

  16. 什么’您对Matt穿着棕褐色/奶油色/米色等非结构化棉质外套有何见解?还有哪些身体类型可以很好地完成它?

  17. 很抱歉再问一个问题,马特,因为我想我最信任您像詹姆斯·邦德这样的着装。我有一件酷酷的灰色奇外套,色泽与罗杰·摩尔相似’s cool grey 适合 in the man with the golden gun. 什么 pair of trousers, shirt 和 tie could go well with it? 谢谢。

  18. 邦德为所有温暖的天气运动外套穿了一件,除了一件 ’在Spectre和TSWLM中,它们是否有衬里,因为我从某人那里听说衬里有时会取消开织的目的。另外,您会推荐什么样的衬里作为保暖运动外套的透气性?对于炎热潮湿的天气,衬里越少越好。越野车衬里非常有用。

  19. 马特 I have a navy like coat that looks similar to a topcoat but is fitted like a 适合 和 sport jacket, has a long single vent, slanted pockets with no pocket flaps. Do you think this can work as a sports coat 和 if so what would shirt, trousers 和 tie would you recommend to pair with it?

  20. 如果我想穿一整年(3季面料)的棕色运动外套,您会推荐Matt的哪种面料(可能还包括丝绸)

  21. 购买了带有宝塔肩的定制西装外套?我通过小道消息听说,如果定制的话,可能会加宽肩膀吗?

    有没有道理呢?肩膀有点紧,但看起来没有扭曲。

    • 可以将定制的外套放到肩膀上,但可能会赢了’是要散发的结构。如果可能的话,您可能需要定制的裁缝来完成工作。定期的改衣裁缝将无法执行此类工作。

  22. 马特 I would appreciate your help about an outfit I will be wearing soon for a date in the evening. It’s a medium to light grey Princes of Wales flannel (pattern quite similar to Connery’s 适合 in FRWL when spying the Russian embassy), rather thick, which I intend to pair with solid navy blue 适合 trousers. I know solid grey trousers would work much better but the 上 ly solid grey trousers I have are way too lightweight 和 won’t work with the jacket. Plus they are rather slim while the jacket is full cut. So I have to wear the navy trousers which are heavier 和 cut fuller.
    我想知道您会搭配什么样的鞋子,衬衫和领带。我以为黑色牛津布和白色纯色衬衫,因为它们都具有相当中性的颜色,但是我欢迎任何建议。还有什么颜色的领带最合适?我一直在想除了蓝色以外的所有东西,因为它可以吸引我的裤子而不是我的脸?
    如果可以的话,我的肤色比较冬天,蓝眼睛,皮肤苍白,棕褐色的头发,又高又苗条。希望对您有所帮助!
    如果天气寒冷,我可能也会穿着海军切斯特菲尔德大衣。提前谢谢了 !

发表评论

请输入您的评论!
请在这里输入您的名字

该网站使用Akismet减少垃圾邮件。 了解如何处理您的评论数据.