Navy 西装外套s: More Than Navy Suit Jackets with Metal Buttons

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西装外套博士

什么是或不是 ’西装外套吗?根据一个定义,西装外套是海军裁缝外套,或采用其他传统纯色制作的带有金属纽扣的夹克。根据另一个定义’一件量身定制的外套,上面有厚而明亮的条纹,可能有也可能没有金属纽扣。只有第一类西装外套与James 键有关。“Blazer” is neither another term for a tailored odd jacket nor a suit jacket, though the term has increasingly been used as such since traditional 开拓者 have because less popular. 键’s 开拓者 are always blue, from the almost black 罗伊al Navy uniform shade to a bright marine blue.

单排扣或双排扣

西装外套s can be either single-breasted or double-breasted. All of James 键’s single-breasted 开拓者 have two buttons 和 double vents. Sean 合力 wears three similar single-breasted 开拓者 in 博士号, 雷球钻石恒久远. 罗杰·摩尔 wears two similar single-breasted 开拓者 in 爱我的间谍Moonraker 另一个在 single-breasted 西装外套 in 一杀必杀.

Lazenby西装外套

键’s double-breasted 开拓者 all have six buttons. Some of 键’s double-breasted 开拓者 have two to button in the traditional configuration with the top row placed further apart. Other 开拓者 have three to button like a naval reefer jacket, which makes the jacket look rather columnar 和 give it a higher buttoning point. However, this style looks appropriate for a naval commander. The double-breasted 开拓者 all have double vents like the single-breasted 开拓者 have. 乔治·拉岑比 wears a double-breasted 西装外套 in Her下’s Secret Service罗杰·摩尔 wears double-breasted 开拓者 in 有金枪的人 , Moonraker只为您的眼睛 而Pierce Brosnan穿着 double-breasted 西装外套 in 黄金眼, which has the last appearance of the 西装外套 in the 键 series.

西装外套s can be made in a variety of different cloths. The most common cloth for a 西装外套 is wool serge. 哔叽 是精纺羊毛或精纺羊毛的组合,成45度纵行的均匀斜纹编织。带有较清晰斜纹威尔士风的较厚肩带看起来更像夹克。 哔叽是西装最常用的材料之一,但在海军上,它可能是搭配夹克的绝佳选择’s own. 哔叽 开拓者 are the most formal type of 开拓者 due to the cloth being the same as what is often used for a business suits 和 military uniforms. Plain-weave worsteds are not as good of a choice for a 西装外套 because they don’有很多个性或兴趣。乔治·拉岑比’s 西装外套 in Her下’s Secret Service罗杰·摩尔’s 西装外套 in 只为您的眼睛和Pierce Brosnan’s 西装外套 in 黄金眼 可能是由serge制成的。

间谍谁爱我海军外套

霍普萨克 wool is a worsted commonly used for warm-weather 开拓者. 霍普萨克 is a basketweave 和 is open 和 very breathable. 罗杰·摩尔’的双排扣西装外套 有金枪的人 和 single-breasted 开拓者 in 爱我的间谍Moonraker and 一杀必杀 are hopsack.

杜斯金 是理想的凉爽外套。它’绒毛浓密的绒布,有光泽,而不是鹿皮。它被编织成像纱一样的斜纹编织,但传统上无法通过厚绒布看到该编织。肖恩·康纳利’s three 开拓者 in 博士号, 雷球钻石恒久远 即使他在热带地区穿着其中的两个,看起来也像是迪斯金。罗杰·摩尔’的双排扣西装外套 Moonraker 也似乎是doskin。

Diamonds-Are-Forever-Blazer

Other cloths can make excellent 开拓者. A soft, thick cashmere is excellent in cold weather whilst silk 和 linen are exceptional in warmer weather.

按钮

有些人遵循这样的定义:西装外套必须具有金属纽扣才能成为西装外套。金属纽扣反映了服装的海上历史。所有詹姆斯·邦德 ’s 开拓者 have metal buttons, whether brass (polished or unpolished), polished nickel or gunmetal. Pewter buttons are a subtler alternative to brighter metals. At the moment, 开拓者 with metal buttons are unfashionable. Some think they are for old men, some think they are for preps, 和 others think they are for security guards. The classic metal buttons have solid blank with a shank (metal loop) that sews 上to the jacket. Crests should 上ly be worn 上 the buttons if the crest has a personal significance. Naval motifs 上 the buttons are common, 和 键 wears shanked buttons with such a motif in 黄金眼. Many of 键’带柄的按钮只是普通金属。

黄金眼西装外套按钮

爱我的间谍Moonraker, the buttons are metal (nickel 上 the single-breasted 开拓者 和 brass 上 the double-breasted 西装外套 ) with four holes, 和 the buttons are sewn 上 with a contrasting navy thread. These buttons have a more modern look than shanked buttons, but they keep the 西装外套 tradition by sticking with metal. Enamel buttons in a metal case are another classic choice for a 西装外套 , but 键 has not worn these.

我相信海军外套可以使用除金属纽扣以外的其他纽扣,尽管这些外套是否仍然符合“blazers”值得商.。这些纽扣必须与西服外套纽扣不同,以便排除塑料或冠冕上的海军或黑色纽扣。喇叭按钮可在任何中等至浅褐色的阴影中使用。未抛光的牛角使外套看起来更不显眼,而抛光的牛角(尤其是浅色阴影)可以使光泽的金色效果更接近传统西装外套的纽扣。烟熏珍珠贝母纽扣非常适合海军奇特夹克,并且在没有金属纽扣的情况下也拥有活泼的外观。烟熏珍珠贝母纽扣银色,有光泽,几乎看起来像金属,但是它们的多样性使它们更加有趣。对于轻便的夹克或亚麻外套,蓝色或白色的珍珠母纽扣也是一个不错的选择,而深色的牛角纽扣看起来可能太重。对于羊绒和羊绒夹克,木质纽扣可以使夹克显得更质朴。

从技术上讲,具有非金属纽扣的海军外套是否“blazer”, it can still be a wonderful odd jacket. If the navy odd jacket were to return to the 键 series, this is the form I could see it returning in rather than as a traditional 西装外套 .

细节

西装外套s are cut 和 fit the same as suit jackets. Some people prefer a looser fit for their 开拓者, sometimes so they can wear a jumper underneath, but there’没有规则说西装外套应该与西装外套不同。所有詹姆斯·邦德’s 开拓者 are structured, cut 和 fit exactly the same as the suit jackets he wears within the same films as the respective 开拓者. Most of James 键’s 开拓者 have details that make them more than ordinary suit jackets with metal buttons. The 开拓者 in Her下’s Secret Service, 钻石恒久远Moonraker have swelled edges for a sportier look. All of 键’s 开拓者 have double vents to follow British tradition, though 开拓者 in the American have single vents. The double vents are key to wearing a 西装外套 like 键.

键 wears a navy 西装外套  上 his date with Miss Taro
键 wears a navy 西装外套 上 his date with Miss Taro

The pockets 上 键’s 开拓者 are rarely ordinary straight, flapped pockets, though that is what the single-breasted 西装外套 in 一杀必杀 和 the double-breasted 开拓者 in 只为您的眼睛黄金眼 有。肖恩·康纳利的全部三个’s 开拓者 have open patch pockets for not 上ly the hip pockets but for the breast pocket as well. Patch pockets are the most casual type of jacket pocket 和 are never found 上 business suits. 罗杰·摩尔’的双排扣西装外套 Moonraker has patch pockets 上 the hips with flaps. The breast pocket 上 these 开拓者 is an ordinary welt breast pocket since an open patch breast pocket wouldn’与拍打的臀部口袋相匹配,拍打的贴胸口袋在胸部看起来会比较沉重。

摩尔双排扣西装外套3

Many of 键’s 开拓者 have slanted “hacking”口袋,是从双排扣的军装上拿来的 大衣 rather than from the 骇客 jacket in the case of the 西装外套 . Some of 键’s 开拓者 with slanted pockets also have ticket pockets.

When 和 where to wear a 西装外套

The navy 西装外套 has proven to be 上e of the most versatile garments. 在 some parts of America, 开拓者 are appropriate business dress, but they are essentially a type of sports coat 和 are best worn socially. 键 mostly wears his 开拓者 socially, 和 he 上ly wears a 西装外套 to the office in 雷球 因为他’s hurrying in from the country. 西装外套s are the most formal of all sports coats due to being a solid, dark colour. A 西装外套 isn’远非海军西装外套,这是它可以在更时尚的环境中穿着的原因。就像海军服一样,无论白天还是晚上,海军西装外套都很棒。

对于您的眼睛只有西装外套

西装外套s have a maritime heritage 和 are always appropriate by the water. 键 wears 开拓者 上 tropical islands in 博士号雷球,在RMS上 伊丽莎白女王 沉没在维多利亚港 有金枪的人 ,并在地中海 爱我的间谍, 只为您的眼睛黄金眼.

西装外套s do not need to be worn near water. For social occasions in the city they don’在西装之间不要太突出。他们在乡下’非常适合在乡村俱乐部喝酒。

什么 to wear with a 西装外套

James 键 has worn many different colours in his trouser with his 开拓者. The trousers worn with a 西装外套 need to contrast the 西装外套 to avoid looking like a mismatched suit, 和 thus navy, black 和 charcoal trousers do not pair well. Sean 合力 pairs his 开拓者 with dark grey trousers—a shade lighter than charcoal—to dress up the outfit as much as he can. The less contrast there is between the jacket 和 trousers the more formal the outfit is.

James 键 has worn medium grey, light grey, tan, beige, stone (light taupe) 和 white trousers with his 开拓者. Any shade of grey is a great choice for the city or a dressier look, particularly in the evening. Tan, beige 和 stone give the 西装外套 a sportier 和 more casual look, 和 these colours are best worn in the daytime. White trousers, give the 西装外套 a nautical look 和 should 上ly be worn with a 西装外套 上 the water, where Bond wears his 西装外套 with white trousers in 有金枪的人 爱我的间谍. Even when worn by the water, white trousers with a 西装外套 can come off a costume-like. Cream 和 British tan are other great choices to wear that 键 has not worn with his 开拓者.

Navy hopsack 西装外套  with beige cavalry twill trousers in Moonraker
Navy hopsack 西装外套 with beige cavalry twill trousers in Moonraker

The trousers 键 wears with his 开拓者 are always wool, in woolen flannel for greys 和 cavalry twill or gabardine for earth tones 和 white. Tropical 和 fresco wool, silk, linen 和 cotton gabardine are other great trouser materials to pair with a 西装外套 , particularly hopsack 和 lighter serge 开拓者. Cotton chinos are acceptable with a hopsack 西装外套 , but they should be pressed.

The options for shirts are ties to wear with a navy 西装外套 are limitless. 键 usually wears similar shirts 和 ties that he would wear with a navy suit. Bond occasionally wears his 开拓者 without a tie for a more casual look. The colour of the shoes should complement the trousers. Oxfords can dress up the outfit whilst slip-ons can dress down the outfit. The many different items that can be worn with a navy 西装外套 to dress it up or down contribute to the incredible versatility of the garment.

66条评论

  1. “If the navy odd jacket were to return to the 键 series, this is the form I could see it returning in rather than as a traditional 西装外套 .”

    我同意–我完全可以想象克雷格(Craig)穿着那种外套,但是没有传统的黄铜纽扣(不适合他)。也许与灰色法兰绒或壁画长裤结合使用(取决于各自的位置)’的气候),但绝对不能搭配浅棕色的骑兵斜纹长裤。相反,最好是一些白色/奶油色的(亚麻或热带羊毛)。

    合力’s 和 Lazenby’s 开拓者 are fine 和 have a very good fit.

  2. My go to smart casual garment. My navy 西装外套 has silver buttons 和 is a true dark navy. Perfect for a dressed down Friday at the office or a social event. Not ideal for business but 上 a days where I have no appointments it more then replaces a suit. I have a another 西装外套 上 order with patch pockets like Sean 合力’西装外套,但采用更现代的金色/棕色纽扣而非金属纽扣。

  3. “At the moment, 开拓者 with metal buttons are unfashionable. Some think they are for old men, some think they are for preps, 和 others think they are for security guards. ” 唐’您想知道谁首先提出了这个废话吗?而当我们’因为它是什么时候“uncool”去大学预科学校?

    • 我认为它’我是你瞄准的人。你呢’re right –我确实说过,海事组织(IMO)罗杰·摩尔(Roger Moore)穿着西装外套时看起来像伊顿主义者。我想到的是我特别不喜欢他的MR西装外套和棕色骑兵长裤。是的–对我来说,如果一个五十多岁的大人穿的衣服看起来像学校里的小学生,那看起来就很酷。伊顿本身没有错。但是由于摩尔是“Tongue-in-cheek-Bond” perhaps that was not meant to be taken seriously but rather some kind of parody (which most of his 键 performance was). IMO 合力 和 Lazenby look far better in their 开拓者 because theirs have a more military touch (and that’西装外套的来源)。

    • 雷纳德, Moore had worn 开拓者 long before 和 after his 键 years 和 I expect he wears them 因为他 likes them 和 it isn’脸颊上没有任何舌头。它’s a garment I’d与他有着不可磨灭的交往,其他许多人也会与之交往。的确,我记得有人或其他人说他(又是不存在的表演能力)时再次挥拳’d只要打开名为““Best 西装外套 和 Slacks”。至于谁穿的西装外套最好,’是主观的,它们绝不是经典和优雅的酷装。

  4. 谢谢,马特。这是有关我最喜欢的服装之一的丰富资源!

    我在美国中大西洋的一个城市工作,只要不要求我出庭或与客户见面,我就不会穿西装外套到办公室。鉴于大多数办公室(甚至律师事务所!)每周都会有五天是商务休闲,所以我’我不确定旧的区别是否仍然有用,至少在我的生活和工作地点。

  5. 马特
    除了提供内容丰富和有趣的内容外,您的博客还帮助我明确了关于当今男人出了什么问题的想法’s fashion –从根本上讲,它是TIMID,以不正当的形式沉迷“reverse 势利”。我想起了我多年来在此博客上阅读的评论–摩尔太时髦了,布罗斯南(Brosnan)’s ties were garish, plaids make men look like car salesmen, tweeds 和 开拓者 with brass buttons are old-mannish 和 preppy, etc. After we eliminate many of the 经典订书钉 of the male wardrobe, we are left with nondescript dark suits 和 ties, 和 we try to compensate for their lack of imagination by embracing outlandish cuts .

    • 那你想要什么– real 势利? Blatancy 和 swaggering? 我不知道’不想那样。卡里·格兰特(Cary Grant)按照父亲告诉他的打扮:“他们应该看到你而不是你的西装–那应该是次要的。” And that’这就是为什么我喜欢精巧的Connery外观的原因’s 和 Lazenby’s 键 wardrobe. LESS IS MORE.

      “After we eliminate many of the 经典订书钉 of the male wardrobe”
      我不’不知道你到底是什么意思“classic staples”. And 我不知道’看不到有消除– there’每次都在进行重新解释。有些重新解释是好的,有些则不是。但是他们都来来去去。从根本上讲,这套衣服在出现后的许多年中一直保持着整体形状和外观。而海事组织– forgive me –如果只更换黄铜纽扣,就不会cast割经典海军西装外套。

      和“classic staples”据我了解他们仍然在那里– the dinner jacket, the tailcoat, the 西装外套 , tweed jacket etc. Perhaps some details changed over the years but 我不知道’看不到任何根本的变化(至少是“elimination”)。今天,我们处于一种或多或少的幸福状态,因为一段时间前已经有了经典服装的复兴(以及对定制服装的赞赏!)。在这方面,70年代和80年代要糟糕得多。

      唐’t get me wrong – 我不知道’完全像现在的时尚一样,当然包括现在剪裁西装的方式。但“elimination”这个词可能太强了。

  6. 马特(Matt)-海军西装外套的出色书写和防守。尽管我必须承认我40岁时退休了我。我认为之所以认为它适合老年人,兄弟会男孩和保安人员,是因为我总是看到他们穿着它们。而且通常也不是很好穿。另外,征兵制的终结,至少在1973年的美国,导致了几代人并不真正愿意或不习惯穿具有军事背景的衣服。我确实看到这个概念在洛杉矶和海湾地区穿得很差,西装外套配牛仔裤。这款格纹运动外套的确在过去两年中获得了短暂的看似很晚的,受疯人启发的灵感,但我最近才看到它们。无论如何,首先是开衫,然后是高领衫,然后是白色晚礼服-也许,海军上衣会出现在克雷格的下一个挽救生命的清单上。

    Finally – that 博士号 西装外套 just looks near perfect to my eyes. And Roger’s TSWLM 西装外套 is just perfectly fit around his body. Superb tailoring 上 both. The FYEO 上e looks oddly poor for Hayward.

    • “没有西装外套的博士在我眼前看起来近乎完美。罗杰的TSWLM西装外套正好适合他的身体。两者都精湛的剪裁。对于海沃德来说,FYEO看起来很穷。” – I couldn’不同意!对于他在此博客上获得的所有批评,Angelo Roma可能会大放异彩!

      • 安杰洛’s 开拓者 are his best pieces because the dark colour downplays the width of the lapels. The 西装外套 is the best piece from 爱我的间谍, though the white trousers with wide flares are not something I’d建议任何人穿。

    • 安杰洛西装外套非常出色。我最喜欢的系列定制服装之一。我有一个带有金属纽扣的随身夹克,剪裁得非常相似,尽管我的峰值翻领很宽。我知道有点奇怪,但是’这是一件比标准海军西装外套更有趣的独特作品。

  7. Love the 西装外套 from 博士号. Why can’我再发现那样的运动夹克了吗?这些天,一切都是高峡谷,高扣紧屁股。感谢您的来信。

    • 阿恩
      Try looking at vintage 开拓者 上 eBay or in thrift shops – that’这些天,我在这里买了所有量身定制的衣服,这正是您如此雄辩地概述的原因!

  8. 令你惊讶的是’t see more 西装外套s with metal buttons with four holes rather than shanked these days. A more modern look as Matt has said in the 文章 but in keeping with the 西装外套 ’的遗产。我想我’我的下一件西装外套上也会有类似的按钮,例如Roger Moore’s from TSWLM 和 MR.

  9. 唯一可以做的就是忽略背景干扰,调到一个’自己的频率并以此方式进行。那’s老龄化的一项补偿;您越来越不在乎这一切。幸运的是,就我而言,我是从一个良好的基础开始的,因为我从一开始就从来没有那么在乎!西装外套是最通用,最讨人喜欢的衣服,是任何绅士必备的服装’s wardrobe 和 I’我让裁缝为我制作了一个新的SB版本,沿用了Hayward的风格’经典的低按钮,自然的肩部模型。至于最近这种无知的趋势,就是将所有不匹配的量身定制的夹克都称为“blazers”好吧,这恰恰反映了我们这个时代的极端疯狂!

  10. 嗨,马特
    那么Serge仅仅是45度纵行的斜纹编织吗?这是否意味着例如当我在本地MTM商店以纯斜纹布看到11oz super 100s的样品时,这是否很奇怪?同样,对于他们的城镇和乡村13盎司精纺斜纹布(我很感激您需要查看样品吗?)?
    如果您需要查看样本,我可以推荐您访问dugdalebros.com(如果您愿意在这里帮助我,:))
    我也是’我很好奇,但法兰绒布和精纺斜纹布/毛布之间有什么区别?
    原谅我的天真。
    干杯
    瑞安

    • 哔叽是45度斜纹羊毛,两侧看起来相同,并且’通常精纺。尽管有大多数45°斜纹西服’s夏枯草,是经面为45°的斜纹。法兰绒的编织工艺与精纺毛料相同,但饰面不同。羊毛法兰绒是由粗纱与纱相同的组织制成的,但是’的编织大部分被遮盖。精纺法兰绒就像是带有绒毛的绒毛,您可以在午睡中看到编织。

  11. 关于西装外套名称的由来有很多理论。我最喜欢的是圣约翰的颜色’英国剑桥大学的学院是鲜红色的。大学里的孩子们’的合唱学校和大学赛艇俱乐部的本科生(在一次致命的赛艇事故发生后更名为玛格丽特夫人)也穿着鲜红色的外套。许多年前,它们是由一位作家描述的。“their jackets ablaze”. The name stuck.

  12. 我同意那个!看看eBay,’看到如此多的REAL套装会令人耳目一新。只要小心80’s 和 90’低谷遗迹。我建议您从Marks搜索西服& Spencer there!

  13. “那你想要什么– real 势利?” For what it’值得一提的是,书债券和电影债券的几个特质之一直到最近才有所共通。我也不要’不明白为什么MR SB西装外套更多“schoolboysh” than 合力’s SB 开拓者.

    • 马特好点!这使我更加坚信,真正的问题不是开拓者’或与之搭配的裤子,而是演员本人和他对007角色的诠释。与此相关的是,请考虑一下:1977年最大的两部电影是TSWLM和《星球大战》–新希望。它们都是明亮,有趣,乐观的幻想,从真实的新闻(滞涨,石油短缺,飞机劫机等)的严峻打击中提供了一定程度的欢迎解脱。邦德和星球大战已成为“darkandgritty”少了很多乐趣。它’几乎就连幻想的提供者也不敢让自己充满阳光。我不知道这种文化悲观情绪是否是推动发展的因素“Moore hatred”在这个和其他007博客上。

    • 我想在我以前的文章中补充一点–摩尔电影确实是重复的,但公式“和ave可亲的英国英雄击败邪恶力量,拯救了世界,并获得了女孩”不仅反映出乐观,而且还反映出在面对圣战威胁时今天严重缺乏的某种文化自信​​心。

    • 丹我’我很好奇,《原力觉醒》让你觉得它漆黑又坚韧怎么办?这可能不合时宜,但我发现这是对原始《星球大战》三部曲的乐趣的非常欢迎的回忆。

  14. 是的,但是Connery从来没有过任何男生气息– the same is true for Craig, Dalton 和 Lazenby. That is what I was referring to when I said the 西装外套 combination Moore wore in MR (with cavalry twill trousers) certainly would not work 上 them.

    And just 上e other remark: Of course I also wear 开拓者 (certainly without brass buttons so perhaps rather odd jackets in navy blue) 和 enjoy their versatility. 我不知道’衣服本身没有任何东西,但这取决于样式(裁剪等)以及它们的组合方式。配绒布/壁画/白鸭/亚麻长裤:不错。带有骑兵斜纹布,宽松的斜纹棉布裤,灯芯绒:不太好。

    As to the 势利 issue: I think you are right about Fleming/ literary 键 being a snob. But wouldn’你更喜欢他优雅吗?贪睡意味着缺乏风格,而且态度恶劣。

    • May I ask what the problem you have with beige cavalry twill trousers 和 a 西装外套 is? Do you also not like gabardine trousers with a 西装外套 ? I agree about chinos 和 corduroy.

      势利的人没有’这意味着缺乏风格。它’关于态度。衣服势利的人可能认为他’比别人更好,因为他认为自己的穿着比别人优雅。与大多数人相比,服装势利的人很可能具有更好的风格感。弗莱明’s 键 was indeed a snob who, however, lacked a good sense of style.

  15. 骑兵斜纹长裤:IMO他们创造了一个“grandpa”外观(尤其是米色的外观)。再次:唐’t get me wrong – I loved my 爷爷s, but I didn’t (and don’t)想要看起来像他们。我知道有些人可能会很喜欢c.t.长裤–完全可以,每个人都有。 Gabardine更好一点,但也不是我的最爱。问题是法兰绒等使运动外观更加’我喜欢西装外套。

    势利的人与势利的人:也许我们可以接受极端势利的人为势利的人造成的不良风格。过多的花花公子和虚张声势使人显得荒谬。对我来说,这就是不良风格的代名词。
    我对这个词感到很不自在“snobbery” –也许我们应该使用“extravagance” instead. A TOUCH of 铺张浪费 always upgrades a look.

    • I’我总是将法兰绒与年长的男人联系起来,而不是与我的骑兵斜纹在一起,但是您可能在不同的地方经历了不同的经历’从。到目前为止,骑兵斜纹布更运动。

      我不知道’看不到势利者与一个人有什么关系’s style. It’仅仅是对风格的不良态度,无论是好的风格还是坏的。我完全同意您的铺张浪费。

    • 什么’在关于斜纹布长裤的这场颇为奇怪的辩论中,有趣的是,康纳利(Connery)在金手指(Goldfinger)和雷霆球(Thunderball)都穿着运动外套,在上一部电影中也穿着polo衫。我没有’t heard any silly “old man”标签放在他身上吗?

  16. 今天,我看到许多年轻人穿着法兰绒长裤。只是谷歌“灰色法兰绒长裤”。然后对“骑兵斜纹长裤”…

    • 我怀疑我们的大多数祖父比我们在Esquire和GQ的页面上看到的大多数年轻人都穿得更好。我知道我是。

  17. 就我个人而言,我只不过是一件单排扣的海军蓝西装外套,配白色长裤和热带白鞋,或者蓝色帆布凉鞋。单排扣避免“costume-like look”马特(Matt)以上所述,可以从水上戴上。休·劳瑞(Hugh Laurie)穿上双排扣白色鞋子和长裤,黑色拐杖和巴拿马草帽在吉夫斯(Jevees)看起来非常好& Wooster.
    For grass sport, I would wear dark grey or charcoal trousers with my blue 西装外套 .
    You could be a bit daring, leave off the tie, 和 fold your white shirt collar over the outside of the 西装外套 … Another idea is loafers 和 no socks with a 西装外套 , or even Bermuda shorts 和 loafers/ canvas plimsolls.
    I remember a young Michael Caine looking good in a blue 西装外套 .

  18. 我所说的带褶皱的裤子和褶皱帆布鞋的鞋让我想起了抽象的圣艾夫斯艺术家本·尼科尔森。塔特(Tate)的照片是他的妻子Barbara Hepworth穿着这样的服装。

  19. 我不知道’t think there’s anything wrong with Navy 西装外套s 和 我不知道’t see them as out of fashion. You still see them in current Hollywood films. I could see Craig wearing 上e, but maybe with metal buttons with 4 holes like regular buttons or with mock metal buttons which I have seen recently 上 a ready to wear 开拓者. He is known for wearing odd jackets in non-bond films eg. Layer Cake to different degrees of success. But let’s hope he doesn’从来没有像过去的邦德电影那样穿西装外套。

  20. I know 永不言败 is unofficial 和 not part of the series, but 合力 did wear a 西装外套 in that film too. It looked very similar to 罗杰·摩尔’以杀戮为目的’直瓣口袋和黄铜纽扣。有谁知道当时Connery使用的裁缝?

  21. “在这场关于斜纹编织长裤的颇为奇怪的辩论中,有趣的是,Connery既穿着金手指,又穿着Thunderball的运动外套,以及上一部电影中的马球衬衫,都穿着这件运动外套。我还没听到他身上贴着任何愚蠢的“老人”标签吗?”

    -polo衫/ c.t.t.组合在Connery上看起来也有些过时。而且他很随意地将其放在一起(他必须快点– the scene before he wears nothing but a silk dressing gown. 和black polo is chosen to camouflage him at night). And with the sports coat the cavalry twill trousers work better because the outfit is worn in the country 和 rather informal. If you combine it with a 西装外套 it’是完全不同的动物。

  22. Are most 开拓者 that people wear navy? Because my dad 上ly wears navy 开拓者 with jeans 和 gingham shirts to work, even though he is a venture capitalist. And even funnier, I’ve never seen him put 上 a suit in my entire life! Why is it that when you see buisnessmen wear 开拓者, they are 90% navy? I’ve seen a couple gray 和 beige 开拓者, but other than those three, it’s very rare to see a 西装外套 of any other color. Do you like single-breasted or double breasted 开拓者 better? I like double breasted 开拓者 better because it adds a bit of a stylish 和 formal edge to a naturally casual outfit. Which 上e would you prefer 和 why?

    • Most 开拓者 are navy. They can be other colours, but it’s unusual. They are navy because of their naval heritage. Navy is also more formal than other colours. Single-breasted 开拓者 are much easier to wear 和 more versatile, though I would recommend not wearing any 西装外套 with jeans.

  23. 昨天我父亲穿着一件很奇怪的东西:一件海军西装外套,搭配海军细条纹裤和一件蓝色衬衫。我认为,扎扎带条纹裤子的西装外套的外观看起来很恐怖。特别是由于裤子的颜色与西装外套(海军和海军)相同。当其他人看着他时,他们可能会想,”他能说出他的裤子上有细条纹吗?”如果我不是他的儿子,我会的。”整个外观都在尖叫“Ayy LMAO!”不管我告诉他多少,并试图说服他看起来很恐怖,他都不会’听我的话继续穿。我不知道’自从我在学校上班的时候就不知道他的反应了,但是可能都是“他到底在做什么?” or “Ayy LMAO!”。我可能会穿着卡其布或斜纹棉布外套,但不穿运动裤,因为我觉得自己穿着西装外套。我的斜纹棉布裤是灰色的,卡其色是棕褐色。显然你不’穿同色裤子的西装外套。您会搭配西装外套搭配哪种裤子?你怎么看我爸’的外观,只穿带条纹长裤的扎实西装外套吗?我认为这看起来可怕吗?

  24. Do you think a navy 西装外套 made of tropical wool can work 和 is an acceptable fabric for 开拓者, because I have a tropical wool 西装外套 和 I’m wondering if it could serve a similar use to a hopsack 西装外套 ?

  25. Matt what film did 键 wear light grey trousers with his navy 西装外套 ? I’m having trouble placing it.

  26. 感谢您提供如此详尽的文章!

    I personally never really had a proper 西装外套 with contrasting buttons, but sometimes 上 casual Fridays, I enjoy wearing my navy suit jacket with odd gray flannel trousers

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