什么是或不是 ’西装外套吗？根据一个定义，西装外套是海军裁缝外套，或采用其他传统纯色制作的带有金属纽扣的夹克。根据另一个定义’一件量身定制的外套，上面有厚而明亮的条纹，可能有也可能没有金属纽扣。只有第一类西装外套与James 键有关。“Blazer” is neither another term for a tailored odd jacket nor a suit jacket, though the term has increasingly been used as such since traditional 开拓者 have because less popular. 键’s 开拓者 are always blue, from the almost black 罗伊al Navy uniform shade to a bright marine blue.
西装外套s can be either single-breasted or double-breasted. All of James 键’s single-breasted 开拓者 have two buttons 和 double vents. Sean 合力 wears three similar single-breasted 开拓者 in 博士号, 雷球 和 钻石恒久远. 罗杰·摩尔 wears two similar single-breasted 开拓者 in 爱我的间谍 和 Moonraker 另一个在 single-breasted 西装外套 in 一杀必杀.
键’s double-breasted 开拓者 all have six buttons. Some of 键’s double-breasted 开拓者 have two to button in the traditional configuration with the top row placed further apart. Other 开拓者 have three to button like a naval reefer jacket, which makes the jacket look rather columnar 和 give it a higher buttoning point. However, this style looks appropriate for a naval commander. The double-breasted 开拓者 all have double vents like the single-breasted 开拓者 have. 乔治·拉岑比 wears a double-breasted 西装外套 in Her下’s Secret Service罗杰·摩尔 wears double-breasted 开拓者 in 有金枪的人 , Moonraker 和 只为您的眼睛 而Pierce Brosnan穿着 double-breasted 西装外套 in 黄金眼, which has the last appearance of the 西装外套 in the 键 series.
西装外套s can be made in a variety of different cloths. The most common cloth for a 西装外套 is wool serge. 哔叽 是精纺羊毛或精纺羊毛的组合，成45度纵行的均匀斜纹编织。带有较清晰斜纹威尔士风的较厚肩带看起来更像夹克。 哔叽是西装最常用的材料之一，但在海军上，它可能是搭配夹克的绝佳选择’s own. 哔叽 开拓者 are the most formal type of 开拓者 due to the cloth being the same as what is often used for a business suits 和 military uniforms. Plain-weave worsteds are not as good of a choice for a 西装外套 because they don’有很多个性或兴趣。乔治·拉岑比’s 西装外套 in Her下’s Secret Service罗杰·摩尔’s 西装外套 in 只为您的眼睛和Pierce Brosnan’s 西装外套 in 黄金眼 可能是由serge制成的。
霍普萨克 wool is a worsted commonly used for warm-weather 开拓者. 霍普萨克 is a basketweave 和 is open 和 very breathable. 罗杰·摩尔’的双排扣西装外套 有金枪的人 和 single-breasted 开拓者 in 爱我的间谍, Moonraker and 一杀必杀 are hopsack.
杜斯金 是理想的凉爽外套。它’绒毛浓密的绒布，有光泽，而不是鹿皮。它被编织成像纱一样的斜纹编织，但传统上无法通过厚绒布看到该编织。肖恩·康纳利’s three 开拓者 in 博士号, 雷球 和 钻石恒久远 即使他在热带地区穿着其中的两个，看起来也像是迪斯金。罗杰·摩尔’的双排扣西装外套 Moonraker 也似乎是doskin。
Other cloths can make excellent 开拓者. A soft, thick cashmere is excellent in cold weather whilst silk 和 linen are exceptional in warmer weather.
有些人遵循这样的定义：西装外套必须具有金属纽扣才能成为西装外套。金属纽扣反映了服装的海上历史。所有詹姆斯·邦德 ’s 开拓者 have metal buttons, whether brass (polished or unpolished), polished nickel or gunmetal. Pewter buttons are a subtler alternative to brighter metals. At the moment, 开拓者 with metal buttons are unfashionable. Some think they are for old men, some think they are for preps, 和 others think they are for security guards. The classic metal buttons have solid blank with a shank (metal loop) that sews 上to the jacket. Crests should 上ly be worn 上 the buttons if the crest has a personal significance. Naval motifs 上 the buttons are common, 和 键 wears shanked buttons with such a motif in 黄金眼. Many of 键’带柄的按钮只是普通金属。
在 爱我的间谍 和 Moonraker, the buttons are metal (nickel 上 the single-breasted 开拓者 和 brass 上 the double-breasted 西装外套 ) with four holes, 和 the buttons are sewn 上 with a contrasting navy thread. These buttons have a more modern look than shanked buttons, but they keep the 西装外套 tradition by sticking with metal. Enamel buttons in a metal case are another classic choice for a 西装外套 , but 键 has not worn these.
从技术上讲，具有非金属纽扣的海军外套是否“blazer”, it can still be a wonderful odd jacket. If the navy odd jacket were to return to the 键 series, this is the form I could see it returning in rather than as a traditional 西装外套 .
西装外套s are cut 和 fit the same as suit jackets. Some people prefer a looser fit for their 开拓者, sometimes so they can wear a jumper underneath, but there’没有规则说西装外套应该与西装外套不同。所有詹姆斯·邦德’s 开拓者 are structured, cut 和 fit exactly the same as the suit jackets he wears within the same films as the respective 开拓者. Most of James 键’s 开拓者 have details that make them more than ordinary suit jackets with metal buttons. The 开拓者 in Her下’s Secret Service, 钻石恒久远 和 Moonraker have swelled edges for a sportier look. All of 键’s 开拓者 have double vents to follow British tradition, though 开拓者 in the American have single vents. The double vents are key to wearing a 西装外套 like 键.
The pockets 上 键’s 开拓者 are rarely ordinary straight, flapped pockets, though that is what the single-breasted 西装外套 in 一杀必杀 和 the double-breasted 开拓者 in 只为您的眼睛 和 黄金眼 有。肖恩·康纳利的全部三个’s 开拓者 have open patch pockets for not 上ly the hip pockets but for the breast pocket as well. Patch pockets are the most casual type of jacket pocket 和 are never found 上 business suits. 罗杰·摩尔’的双排扣西装外套 Moonraker has patch pockets 上 the hips with flaps. The breast pocket 上 these 开拓者 is an ordinary welt breast pocket since an open patch breast pocket wouldn’与拍打的臀部口袋相匹配，拍打的贴胸口袋在胸部看起来会比较沉重。
Many of 键’s 开拓者 have slanted “hacking”口袋，是从双排扣的军装上拿来的 大衣 rather than from the 骇客 jacket in the case of the 西装外套 . Some of 键’s 开拓者 with slanted pockets also have ticket pockets.
When 和 where to wear a 西装外套
The navy 西装外套 has proven to be 上e of the most versatile garments. 在 some parts of America, 开拓者 are appropriate business dress, but they are essentially a type of sports coat 和 are best worn socially. 键 mostly wears his 开拓者 socially, 和 he 上ly wears a 西装外套 to the office in 雷球 因为他’s hurrying in from the country. 西装外套s are the most formal of all sports coats due to being a solid, dark colour. A 西装外套 isn’远非海军西装外套，这是它可以在更时尚的环境中穿着的原因。就像海军服一样，无论白天还是晚上，海军西装外套都很棒。
西装外套s have a maritime heritage 和 are always appropriate by the water. 键 wears 开拓者 上 tropical islands in 博士号 和 雷球，在RMS上 伊丽莎白女王 沉没在维多利亚港 有金枪的人 ，并在地中海 爱我的间谍, 只为您的眼睛 和 黄金眼.
西装外套s do not need to be worn near water. For social occasions in the city they don’在西装之间不要太突出。他们在乡下’非常适合在乡村俱乐部喝酒。
什么 to wear with a 西装外套
James 键 has worn many different colours in his trouser with his 开拓者. The trousers worn with a 西装外套 need to contrast the 西装外套 to avoid looking like a mismatched suit, 和 thus navy, black 和 charcoal trousers do not pair well. Sean 合力 pairs his 开拓者 with dark grey trousers—a shade lighter than charcoal—to dress up the outfit as much as he can. The less contrast there is between the jacket 和 trousers the more formal the outfit is.
James 键 has worn medium grey, light grey, tan, beige, stone (light taupe) 和 white trousers with his 开拓者. Any shade of grey is a great choice for the city or a dressier look, particularly in the evening. Tan, beige 和 stone give the 西装外套 a sportier 和 more casual look, 和 these colours are best worn in the daytime. White trousers, give the 西装外套 a nautical look 和 should 上ly be worn with a 西装外套 上 the water, where Bond wears his 西装外套 with white trousers in 有金枪的人 和 爱我的间谍. Even when worn by the water, white trousers with a 西装外套 can come off a costume-like. Cream 和 British tan are other great choices to wear that 键 has not worn with his 开拓者.
The trousers 键 wears with his 开拓者 are always wool, in woolen flannel for greys 和 cavalry twill or gabardine for earth tones 和 white. Tropical 和 fresco wool, silk, linen 和 cotton gabardine are other great trouser materials to pair with a 西装外套 , particularly hopsack 和 lighter serge 开拓者. Cotton chinos are acceptable with a hopsack 西装外套 , but they should be pressed.
The options for shirts are ties to wear with a navy 西装外套 are limitless. 键 usually wears similar shirts 和 ties that he would wear with a navy suit. Bond occasionally wears his 开拓者 without a tie for a more casual look. The colour of the shoes should complement the trousers. Oxfords can dress up the outfit whilst slip-ons can dress down the outfit. The many different items that can be worn with a navy 西装外套 to dress it up or down contribute to the incredible versatility of the garment.