雷明顿·斯蒂尔: The 双排扣 动力服

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Remington-Steele-Grey-Power-Suit

1980年代“power suit” look was something James Bond mostly avoided, but it became a big part of Pierce 布罗斯南’s look in 雷明顿·斯蒂尔. The 动力服 is characterised by a jacket with large shoulders, a low buttoning point and a low gorge and full-cut trousers with double or triple reverse pleats. 布罗斯南’1985 雷明顿·斯蒂尔剧集中的灰色条纹双排扣西装“斯蒂尔的春天” fits the 1980’的强力西服造型完美,但即使西服看上去已经过时,’s still very flattering 上 布罗斯南. This suit first appeared in 雷明顿·斯蒂尔 在1984年的情节中“Woman of Steele”,这比罗杰·摩尔(Roger Moore)当时詹姆斯·邦德(James Bond)穿着的西装要时尚得多。除了低调的立场,罗杰·摩尔’1980年代邦德的诉讼避免了80’的趋势倾向于更永恒的风格。

雷明顿-斯蒂尔-灰色-电源套装2布罗斯南’s suit has 3/4″条纹交替变浅和变深的灰色,这些条纹由交替的白色细条纹和粉笔条纹围住。像这种西装一样的花哨条纹在1980年代非常流行,并且是强力西装外观不可或缺的一部分。这款双排扣外套有六个纽扣,一对一纽扣,这种风格在80年代中期至90年代初很流行。像这样的双排扣西服偶尔是在1930年代制造的,但那时仍然经典的纽扣两件式剪裁成为双排扣西服的主要组成部分。但是,当时’t uncommon for people to fasten their button-two double-breasted suits 上 ly at the bottom button for an effect similar to what 布罗斯南 wears here. A double-breasted suit that buttons 上 ly at the bottom has a longer lapel line that is very flattering to shorter men, but in 布罗斯南’例如,较长的翻领线为他提供了他所缺乏的V型强壮的躯干。另一方面,将夹克扣得太低意味着夹克’s fulcrum doesn’与身体相配’s waist and natural fulcrum. The jacket moves poorly with the body, and folds radiating from the bottom buttons occur with the slightest movements because of the unnaturally low fulcrum. The folds are not an issue with the fit but instead an unavoidable issue with such a low buttoning point. Even the Duke of Windsor and his contemporary the Duke of Kent had this problem from buttoning their double-breasted suits at the bottom. Overall, 布罗斯南’的西装外套非常合身。尽管较低的纽扣姿势使前部看起来马虎,但后部却拥有完美的顺滑贴合度,而且袖子也优雅垂坠。

雷明顿-斯蒂尔-灰色-电源套装3伴随着1980年代的低钮扣姿态,出现了低峡谷,这导致低翻领高峰。低峡谷实际上与低钮扣姿势相配,因为它缩短了翻领线。否则,规则的,较高的峡谷高度和如此低的钮扣姿势将导致可笑的长翻领。低峡谷使低按钮姿势看起来不太尴尬,并且与低按钮姿势一起使外观更加放松。翻领沿袭传统,两侧各有一个纽扣孔,以匹配夹克两侧的纽扣孔和纽扣。

动力服会’t be complete without copious amounts of shoulder padding. 布罗斯南’s suit jacket has plenty of shoulder padding, which makes the shoulders straight and close to parallel with the ground. 布罗斯南’尽管没有人需要像这件夹克那么多的填充物,但略微的身材肯定会受益于肩膀填充物。尽管肩部已建立,但尚未建立。这种风格出现在80年代后期,这在提摩西·道尔顿(Timothy Dalton)的西装中很明显’s two Bond films.

雷明顿-斯蒂尔-灰色-电源套装41980年代的成套动力服模仿了1930年代和1940年代的风格。那个时代的许多细节也都回来了,例如黑色的口袋和没有后通风口。没有通风孔的夹克’t good for 布罗斯南 since he has the habit of keeping his hands in his pockets. Without vents in the back, the jacket rides up. If he had double vents, he could keep his hands in his pockets and the jacket would still look neat. The jacket’s cuffs have three buttons. The suit trousers have double reverse pleats and a full, straight leg with plain hems. Though braces were a common part of the 动力服 look, 布罗斯南 rarely wore them in 雷明顿·斯蒂尔和instead wears a belt with this suit. This suit could possibly be Italian in origin, since the Italians were best-known for making such 动力服s in the 1980s, but an American tailor could also have been responsible for this suit.

雷明顿-斯蒂尔-灰色-电源套装5布罗斯南’白色衬衫的前部有尖领,双袖口和门襟。门襟缝制3/8″从边缘看,这意味着衬衫的来源可能是英语。动力服会’没有一个就完整“power tie”. A 强力领带 is any brightly-coloured tie, but red is the quintessential 强力领带. 布罗斯南’领带是红色的,在英语方向上有海军条纹。海军条纹被棕色细条纹包围,那里’穿过每个海军条纹的中央还有一个棕色的细条纹。领带看起来像是团状条纹,但很可能不是’t 上 e since the Steele character has no prior affiliations. He knots the tie in an asymmetrical, though rather chunky, four-in-hand knot. It could possibly be a double-four-in-hand knot. A stuffed red silk pocket handkerchief with a navy edge complements the tie. Because 布罗斯南 is wearing this suit in the evening, he wears it with black shoes and a black belt. During the daytime in other episodes, 布罗斯南 wears this suit just as successfully with brown leather.

19条评论

  1. 啊。这就是过去辉煌的男人时装时代的全部荣耀,尽管马特提到了1980年代实际上一直拖到1994年左右。直到当前萎缩的外观,对我而言,这是男人剪裁的绝对最低点。

    正如您所说,马特(Matt),“除了低调的姿态,罗杰·摩尔(Roger Moore)在1980年代的邦德(Bond)诉讼避免了大多数80年代的潮流,而是采用了更永恒的风格。”毫不奇怪。它们是由一位名叫道格·海沃德(Doug Hayward)的工匠量身定制的。这些西装不适合同时提及。这是海沃德(Hayward)对那个时代的致敬,但采用自然的肩部,双通风口和整洁的长裤精心打造; http://www.clxcc.com/the-1980s-double-breasted-suit/

    You mention the phenomenon of the low gorge and low button stance; “Along with the low 1980s button stance came the low gorge, which is results in low lapel peaks. The low gorge actually goes well with the low button stance since it shortens the lapel line. Otherwise, a regular, higher gorge height with such a low button stance would result in ridiculously long lapels. The low gorge makes the low button stance look less awkward, and along with the low button stance contributes to a more relaxed look.” This phenomenon occurs here with 布罗斯南’s monstrosity and with Dalton’s “Licence to Kill”, single breasted versions. But here http://www.clxcc.com/roger-moores-navy-chalkstripe-suit/,峡谷较高,并带有相应的低位按钮姿势,并且效果精美。我假设您是与双排扣夹克有关,马特,但“八达通”西装难道不是高挑的吗,还是海沃德在这里进行了调和?我对此很好奇。

  2. 经历了这个时代,并穿着西装,我的第一反应是“What? That’s not a 动力服..!”. But I realize that 布罗斯南 was so incredibly thin that his frame dampens a lot of the features of this style of suit.

    因为这是我在那里穿过的第一套西装’这几乎是默认的反应“normal” to me –我认为对我们很多人来说都是这样(我认识几个绅士,他们年龄在70年代左右,他们认为宽喇叭裤和大翻领是“the standard” for men’西服!)。例如,翻领的顶峰’对我来说,这件衣服似乎一点也不低。看到这种样式的西装适合中等身材的人会很有趣;这样可以更好地显示这些区别特征。

    我这次最喜欢的西装是海军蓝DB Hugo Boss西装,我通常穿着红色领带。我记得紫色或绿色是“power ties”也一样我喜欢这种风格似乎受30年代/ 40年代风格的影响,我偶尔也穿着那套西装的灰色浅顶软呢帽。

    虽然我认为我们’重新接近更饱满的剪裁很快又回来了,我不知道什么时候厚重的肩膀或过大的肩膀会回来。

  3. 马特,为什么“power suits”?
    I think that the peoples really rich and 强大 in 80s dressed by tailors,at Saville Row or in Italy,but also at New York were still good tailors at time.
    此类职位适合中/低层主管或律师。
    所以为什么“power suits”,was a joke?

    • I’m not sure I understand your question. Middle to high level executives in America dressed in Italian suits like this, often from Armani or Valentino. The lower end of 动力服s would have been from Canali or Hugo Boss. 布罗斯南’西装很贵。较低级别的人更有可能穿美国西服。

      • 啊好吧,
        我忘了阿玛尼和华伦天奴在美国被认为是“exclusive”(在意大利,只有假装成衣才能提供更高质量的营销服务)。
        关键是为什么这种风格的西装被称为“power suits” in USA?
        Because they created a more 运动的s figure?
        还是因为被认为是成功的象征?

      • 正如我上面所说,我度过了这个时代。我的回忆是,西装的坚固性给男人带来了更多“powerful”通过使他看起来更大一些而存在(想像一些男人…”husky”被很多人认为比一个更小,更有肌肉的男人更令人生畏。

        I’d必须将它们从存储中挖掘出来,但是我想起了当时的《 GQ杂志》,使用了诸如“powerful” and “impressive”描述这种西服风格,与“anemic” and “soft”以前曾经出现过的剪影(我记得一位作家,但我没有’记得在哪本杂志上提到您’当您穿着这些西装之一出现时,将使其他所有在工作中的男人看起来更加富丽堂皇!)啊,里根的回忆’s America…

  4. “This suit could possibly be Italian in origin, since the Italians were best-known for making such 动力服s in the 1980s”.

    可能。
    我记得当时对Valentino和Coveri的西装也有类似的削减。
    但具有讽刺意味的是,在意大利的高级服装店,这些西装被认为是“vulgars”(并且大多数出口)。
    在80年代“powers suits”是在罗马和米兰由Caraceni朝代裁制的定制西服,或类似的裁缝(那不勒斯和坎帕尼亚以外,那不勒斯的裁缝鲜为人知)。

    • 但是美国人民对这些意大利裁缝一无所知。在80年代和90年代,人们想要一件意大利西装,而这种西装正是他们所想象的。

  5. Thanks, Matt, for reminding us that the 1980s 动力服 included features from an era widely regarded as a highpoint of men’s fashion: the 1930s. 布罗斯南’s suit is stylish. I’d今天我自己穿上喜欢的衣服。没有讽刺意味。

  6. 我很清楚地记得这种风格。的“Power 适合”趋势实际上直到80年代后期才在这里广泛传播’s / early 90’s。在想要“athletic”V形躯干。麻烦在于,因为它们中的大多数很大,所以他们购买了肩膀很宽的西服以进行补偿。标签始终是意大利,Hugo Boss,Armani等。
    我父亲在70年代长大’s,但在90年代达到管理职位’s so most of his suits are actually of this cut. His favorite is a double breasted charcoal suit with very low buttons that is cut very similarly to 布罗斯南’的西装。每当他举行重要会议时,他都会穿着那件西服搭配法国蓝色衬衫和红色“power tie”. It’他说他是从克林顿抄来的。

  7. 我可能是少数派,但我相信道尔顿’s Licence To Kill dinner suit would have looked much better and would have been fashionable for the times if it were cut in this manner and fit as well as 布罗斯南’s suit does here.

    Having said that, I much prefer the suits that 布罗斯南 wore as Bond.

    在我看来,另一半相关的思想是邦德系列中双排扣西装的最好例子,它不属于007,而是属于拉尔夫·费因斯(Ralph Fiennes)’s M in 天降.

  8. I think apart the way too low button stance, which elongates 布罗斯南’躯干,使他看起来更高,因此更瘦,看起来还不错,而且’s not too roomy.
    But why stripes here ? 布罗斯南 looks slimmer with stripes, why not a subtle plaid or windowpane ? Or just plain grey ?
    我认为这是偷看的’s a shame 布罗斯南 wore 上 ly 上 e glen plaid suit as Bond. He certainly would have looked great in a three-button, light grey, glen plaid Brioni suit.

  9. 我父亲在1980年代和1990年代初期大多穿着这种西装和西装外套,没有顶峰的标签和双胸,并把它们作为我的第一套西装交给了我,它们的质量非常出色。他是公司的新奥尔良富裕律师。您是正确的Spaiser先生。在那段时间里,当美国人想要一件意大利西装时,这种风格是可以预料的,无论当时意大利人实际穿着什么。

    虽然我不喜欢双排扣风格,但我认为“power suit” looks fine and still very presentable if the fit is proper like the 上 e Mr. 布罗斯南 wears in that instance. The shoulders are not as bad as some of the other suits he wears in that series. The width of the tie and fit of the suit compliment his figure.

    风格过时了,但是我觉得那时候很有品味。我只是将其作为购买时尚服装的课程。无论媒体如何吸引人们的眼球,当时尚消失后,它总是显得俗气而过时。就像其他人在这里提到的那样,如今在娱乐界特别流行的苗条西服,薄翻领和低腰平纹前裤已成为流行趋势。在十年左右的时间内,人们将观看2000年代和2010年代后期的电影和电视节目,“他们在想什么?”

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