圣徒:蓝色花呢外套

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Saint-Blue-Tweed-夹克-3

用于第一个颜色系列的生产 , Roger 摩尔 takes full advantage of the color and wears a steel blue tweed sports coat made by his usual tailor 西里尔城堡. 摩尔 first wears this jacket in the fifth series episode “The Man Who Liked Lions” and later during the fifth series in “The Persistent Patriots” and “The Fast Women”. He wears it in two sixth series episodes, “The Fiction Makers” and “The House 上 Dragon’s Rock” that were actually part of the fifth series production. It is worn the most in “The House 上 Dragon’s Rock”, and the outfit 摩尔 wears with it is what is featured in this 文章. The episode first aired 上 24 November 1968.

摩尔’粗花呢编织成具有蓝色底纹的斜纹编织,并有白色斑点。它看起来像dodgal花呢,但dodgal是用平纹而不是斜纹编织的。蓝色花呢有点不合常规,是城市色彩的乡村布。花呢传统上是土黄色(棕色和绿色的家庭)或中性灰色。由于蓝色花呢夹克是异常现象,因此必须小心穿着蓝色花呢夹克。在该国,应避免在秋季完全控制大自然的秋天。在冬天,只要蓝色被静音,它就可以与雪融为一体。但是在春季,任何地方的蓝色都可以看起来不错。虽然花呢不是’蓝色花呢夹克是城市传统上的穿着,是混凝土和钢铁中休闲装的不二之选。

Saint-Blue-Tweed-夹克-2

This jacket is 摩尔’s 上 ly jacket with two buttons in the entire run of ,除了不幸的象牙晚餐外套,他在该系列的早期剧集中穿着两个纽扣。与他的典型纽扣三件夹克相比 , this button two jacket makes 摩尔 look less top-heavy and more balanced. The jacket is cut with a swelled chest and a closely nipped waist for an athletic look. The shoulders are lightly padded with roped sleeve heads, but the shoulders look more built-up than they are due to the heavy tweed. The jacket is detailed with double vents, single-button gauntlet (turnback) cuffs and straight flap pockets with a ticket pocket. The jacket has swelled edges 上 the lapels, the collar, the front edge, the pocket welt and flaps and the gauntlet cuffs. The jacket’s buttons are black horn, though brown horn would have been a more fitting choice due to the rustic look and warm tones 摩尔 wears with the jacket.

Saint-Blue-Tweed-夹克-Gauntlet-袖口
从“龙之岩屋”中仔细看一下夹克的长手套袖口(或折回的袖口)的两侧。吊环袖口是连接到袖口的独立件。

摩尔在《巨石之屋》中穿着这件夹克,搭配中灰色法兰绒长裤,前襟为绒毛,蛙嘴式口袋和直腿。在其他一些情节中,他的外套穿棕褐色斜纹布长裤,几乎任何中性的裤子都可以与钢蓝色外套很好地搭配。从浅灰到深木炭,所有灰色阴影均可使用。尽管黑色长裤不会与这件夹克发生冲突,但它们会以大胆的方式使蓝色流行,而木炭长裤将呈现出相似的外观,更柔软,更优雅。从浅米色到黑巧克力,棕色家族中的任何东西都可以使用。虽然奶油色和白色的裤子不一定要搭配凉爽的花呢外套,但在温暖的天气下搭配蓝色钢亚麻外套或丝绸外套是完美的选择。橄榄色的裤子虽然通常被认为是中性的,但搭配蓝色外套的效果却不佳。作为三色系颜色,当大量存在两种颜色时,蓝色和橄榄色会相互竞争。

Saint-Blue-Tweed-夹克

摩尔’s ecru shirt has a moderate spread collar, plain front and double cuffs. The narrow tie has wide brick red and grey stripes separated by narrow black stripes in the 经典 British direction, and it is tied in a four-in-hand knot. 摩尔’s shoes are dark brown short chelsea boots.

43条评论

  1. 摩尔 truly should have worn more two-button jackets, as this truly was the best choice for his physique in the 60’s。我必须承认我喜欢这件夹克和它’的颜色,除了狭窄的翻领之外,我自己也可以穿这个!它’是这座城市很棒的休闲运动外套。

    • 我不能’t agree more –我喜欢这个样子。除非定制,否则很难找到这样的夹克。

    • eBay上不时有一些很棒的小菜一碟。那’s where I get my suits/jackets nowadays due to the current 时尚.

    • 当然可以,为什么不呢? 3个按钮是最传统的。 4是老式的,应仅限于某些类型的夹克。 2更现代,但完全可以接受。 1甚至更现代,但我认为’s still acceptable.

  2. 当布雷特·辛克莱(Brett Sinclair)伪装成想被聘为辛克莱勋爵(Lord Sinclair)的演员时,这似乎是在说服者身上穿的。然后用于表征穿着旧衣服和过时衣服的演员…

  3. I wonder why Castle mostly used a 3-button front 上 摩尔, since the 2- button seemed obviously to be the best cut for 摩尔. Nice sport coat, and nice 60s tie.
    It’当然是他本来可以作为邦德(Bond)穿着的衣服,也许还有一些长一点的裤子。

  4. One of 摩尔’s best sports jacket and a good example of taking a tweed jacket and making it a little more interesting with a great colour like steel blue. I have a similar coloured jacket and I find it very versatile. I think striped ties should come back to the Bond series but in traditional stripes like the regimental tie 摩尔 wore in LALD. 丹尼尔·克雷格 often wears striped repo ties to photo calls and premieres, so he must personally have no problem with them.

  5. “认为衣服可能会在5年后过时,这很可怕”.

    This is 上 e of the things that dislike more in Roger 摩尔’s wardrobe: he is too much 时尚able (or 时尚 victim); what a waste of good bespoke!
    Another thing of 摩尔 that i not like is that for to be up- to-date he dress in a way that is not good 上 him:
    在60年代,他的大乳房上有三个带有瘦翻领的纽扣。

  6. 我可以 上 ly agree with the general, positive consensus about this outfit. The jacket was 上 e of the best from the entire “Saint” series for 摩尔 in terms of both cut and colour. Couldn’t be better. It’s a real shame that it was so underused; appearing in few episodes and then for a, comparatively short period of time. For what it’s worth, the tan trousers which he wore with it in 上 ly 1 episode were even nicer than the grey. Gave the outfit a richer looking appearance. The tie seems as it may have been a carry over from the black and white series as I seem to recall similar looking tie patterns. I agree with Ryan that the bias against striped ties nowadays is somewhat inexplicable and makes for a very bland wardrobe.

    我同意其他城堡为他量身定制的3套纽扣西装和外套,因为圣堂武士通常不太适合他(例如,这件运动外套在剪裁方面对他没有帮助– http://www.clxcc.com/the-saint-pleated-back-sports-coat/)但是有些东西,例如出现在第一个色彩季节的许多情节中的带有3个纽扣的中灰色2件西服,倾斜的口袋和低纽扣的姿势,被剪得很讨人喜欢。

    Castle produced all his Bond clothing with a 2 button jacket because 3 buttons had gone out of 时尚 by 1972 and this produced a result more favourable to 摩尔.

    我同意,这件夹克的翻领稍宽一点,将尽可能地经典,是的,很遗憾,五年可以使某些服装显得过时和过时,但这确实给了我一点希望从现在起的5年内,男性裁缝的情况(如果仍然以任何有意义的形式存在)!

  7. It’的确是一件漂亮的外套。不幸的是’有点太久了。看当圣堂武士站成两半站立时的照片。太长。

    • 那 is indeed the 经典 length; it’有趣的是,眼睛如何习惯GQ,Esquire等中看到的现代恐怖。

    • It’也许今天很久’s (or even the ’60s) 时尚 standards, but bespoke tailors cut to the most flattering length 上 their customers regardless of decade. They take into account body proportions (longer or shorter than usual torso, leg length, height, etc.). This is the case even 上 摩尔’s ’70年代的服装。翻领的宽度可能会有所不同,但数十年来整体轮廓仍保持良好的品味。

    • 不会啦’一或两厘米长。如果圣堂武士握紧拳头,那将更加引人注目。恕我直言,夹克不应在拇指底部或其附近延伸。否则应将身体一分为二。也许是这样,通过提供的图片很难分辨。

      对不起男孩,我不’t mean to boast but I know my way around 经典 时尚 as good as anyone, so this is not “sad”。我认为这件夹克是对1940年代和50年代初较长夹克的一种敬意。无论如何都没有错,但是无论如何。

      • 正如您所说,夹克应将身体一分为二。您应该知道,臂架并不能准确地表明这一点。它’由于透视和镜头变形,很难从照片中评估夹克的长度。您无法判断夹克距离您在这里看到的只有一到两厘米长。而且,一个较高的摩尔人大约有3至4厘米的经典夹克长度范围’的高度。当夹克太短或太长超出该范围时(例如Daniel Craig)’Skyfall和Pierce Brosnan的西装外套’分别位于GoldenEye的西服外套中),则可以合理地判断一件外套太短或太长。摩尔’s外套对您的口味来说太长了。裁缝不是一门数学科学,并且有不同的,同样有效的关于夹克应该穿多久的流派。

    • 在图片中,夹克到达第二个指关节,这大约是一个人可以得到的适当夹克长度的近似估计值(我强调“approximate”因为有些人的手臂可能长短不一)。

    • 尽管6岁’1我的躯干长而腿短(我穿了31″ inseam!) so a slightly shorter jacket actually works best 上 me. But I do mean /slightly/ shorter than 经典, not Thom Browne length.

  8. 好文章马特。几年前,我选择从Epaulet购买类似颜色的蓝色dodgal或灰色版本。我追求灰色,但偶尔会感到遗憾,我没有’t go for the blue. At the time I had several blue jackets and thought the grey would be more versatile. Anyway I agree this was a great item and although I myself wear 上 ly three button jackets, when 我懂了older episodes of 圣, that style with extra skinny lapels does seem less flattering 上 摩尔’像卡梅洛所说的那样宽阔的胸部。
    顺便说一句’m假设您有盒装电视机,但您知道这些天是否正在电视上播放《圣徒》吗?我录制了第一个系列的几集,这些集在愚蠢的o’几个月前在MeTV频道上播报,但他们没有’似乎已经持续了很长时间。

  9. Then 摩尔’的武器确实必须非常短。他是个高个子,高个子一般不’腿短没什么问题,但是如果裁缝不穿腿的话,我会觉得更舒缓’妥协一个人’减少外套的长度,从而减少了腿的长度,从而降低了整体形象。

    The range of 经典 jackets, the 3/4 centimeters you are referring to, seems like a fair deal. But who will be the judge of when a jacket is within that range or “out of range”? You?

    众所周知,握紧拳头确实可以证明一个人的经典外套长度’s arm length very often is related to the length of the body. For example, if my jackets were longer than that they would cover half my thighs. But, again, Roger 摩尔 may be an exception.

    我个人使用另一条经验法则:我的夹克的末端应比标线末端低一或两厘米。“fly seam”在我的裤子前面。由于我从未让裤子滑过,所以这是非常可靠的。

    我仍然觉得夹克有点太长。但这肯定在您的范围内。

    • 如果我’我要判断一件夹克太长或太短,’s going to be more than 2 cm too long or too short. From the pictures you see you cannot fairly judge if a jacket is too long by such a minuscule amount. When going by the hand method, 摩尔’s jacket is exactly at the length it is supposed to be. So even when comparing the jacket too 摩尔’在怀里,外套不要太长。你避风港’t complained about any of 摩尔’s other jackets here, which are almost all the same length as this jacket. Do you believe 摩尔 always wears a jacket that is too long?

  10. 老实说,我没有’t paid Roger 摩尔’s夹克非常受关注,尽管我是您的博客的狂热读者,并且非常赞成您对夹克和裤子剪裁的大多数立场。

    但是,我发现这里的某些读者和评论员是如此偏向于“反Skyfall短外套作为时尚声明不’看起来不错或年龄不错 ”他们没有看到短外套不一定是短外套而是经典长外套的位置。

    实际上,如果我允许自己有点后现代主义(可以这么说),我想知道是否存在“classic” or “correct”的长度。裁缝本质上是要让人们穿上一件最好的衣服。如果这意味着在臀部上方剪短一件夹克,那就这样吧。

    顺便说一下,我仍然想知道这个范围。您是在哪里捡到的,或者是您自己创造的东西?

    • 该范围是我根据英国马术裁缝偏爱的长外套与那不勒斯裁缝偏爱的短外套得出的近似值。我尝试从不同角度看衣服’相信长度是正确的,这就是为什么我认为长度是可以接受的。您的偏好是该范围的较短端,而摩尔’夹克在另一端。但我会坚持要求夹克要覆盖臀部。那不勒斯的夹克虽然不短但不能露出臀部,但比某些英国裁缝要短得多。我不知道’t think 上 e’除非别人太矮或体重不均衡,否则臀部的外观是好的’绝对必要。我认为,以臀部为结尾的外套通常会将外套的底部放在一个笨拙的位置,当外套覆盖臀部时,相对于身体的形状,外套的底部就显得很自然。

    • 我同意Matt 100%。外套可能更长一点,并且在一个高个子男人看来仍然可以,但是即使在矮个子上,也绝不能露出臀部。

  11. 感谢您的迅速答复。但是,我希望你(和丹)不要’意思是外套应该完全覆盖臀部。我5岁’9″,而且腿短(31″下se),但并非令人震惊。腿部露出来的那一点,我会像àBassett猎犬一样。

    • 我的身高和你的下in长一样。我发现完美的外套长度是30.5″从衣领的底部到下摆,只覆盖我的臀部,尽管它’比我身高的一半稍长。 30″ to 31″ is the ideal range for me, whereas a taller person could acceptably wear a wider range of jacket lengths. 摩尔’s的外套在他的臀部下方延伸了一点,但与躯干相比,他的腿很长。

    • 有趣的是,我们三个人似乎都拥有相同的身高和下se!我同意马特(Matt)的观点,尽管我确实有几双短约1英寸(但仍在经典范围内),但30.5夹克的确在外观和行为上都最适合我。我还发现,一件剪裁适当,长度合适的夹克比让我穿短些的外套更能使我看起来更高。对于丹尼尔·克雷格(Daniel Craig)而言,情况也是如此,只需将前两部邦德电影中的西装与后一部中的西装进行比较即可。

  12. 所以,巴塞特猎犬是你! --

    我有一件31的外套″,蓝色的Bladen棉/亚麻布。永远不要使用它。这些天之一必须带给裁缝。但是,随您去,一切都取决于个人喜好。我宁愿穿短一点的外套,因为我不 ’不想冒更多地短腿的风险。像我们这样的矮个子男人不得不运用很多技巧来使我们的身体看起来更比例。自从我今天居住在瑞典以来,这一点更加明显:他们(如果我没记错的话)是世界第二高的国家。想象一下我必须遵守的标准…

    我用:
    •夹克稍短
    •短裤
    •高腰裤(悬停在我的髋骨顶部或上方)
    •裤子不卷起
    •大多是两个纽扣外套(虽然是旧款,’很难将三个固定的标准留在后面)

  13. 多么美妙的图画!
    是约翰·斯蒂德(John Steed)在70年代后期。
    Narrow lapels and tapered trousers : None concession to the 时尚 of the day (McNee said that he claims this style to the production of “The new Avengers”;没有大翻领,没有喇叭裤)。
    这是样式。
    Have a personal taste beyond the 时尚.

    http://www.voxsartoria.com/image/142759467013

  14. Yes. McNee looks as he always did; impeccable! This shows, as you say, that a person with real aesthetics keeps it 经典 regardless of 时尚 and, in fact, doesn’t care about “fashion”至少到了极点。这是令人钦佩的!

  15. “从“龙之岩屋”中仔细看一下夹克的长手套袖口(或折回的袖口)的两侧。吊环袖口是连接到袖口的独立件。”

    -那’s interesting –您能从图片中看到如何完成吗?它是从内部连接到袖带的吗(带按钮)?

  16. 我懂了–因此它是不可拆卸的。我不知道’不知道是否存在这样的东西,但是如果是这样,我会认为这是一个很实际的安排:它可能会产生一种幻想,即拥有两个分开的晚礼服,并且将不同类型的衬衫袖口与它结合起来会更容易(法语袖口上有手套环,没有袖口的鸡尾酒袖口)。

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