经典城市套装:八达通的灰色绳索条纹

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章鱼灰色绳索条纹

章鱼 , James Bond comes to the office wearing a three-piece 适合 by 道格拉斯·海沃德(Douglas Hayward) in dark grey serge with a white rope stripe. Because the grey isn’t很黑,绳条纹不明显’t as overbearing as it could be 上 a dark navy or charcoal 适合. And a white rope stripe 上 a black 适合 makes 上 e look like a gangster The timelessness of the grey rope stripe is proven by it’最近出现在 天降 ,但现在与丹尼尔·克雷格(Daniel Craig)搭配的是浅蓝色条纹’s shirt. The 适合 in 章鱼 is a classic button three, cut with a clean chest and has natural shoulders with roped sleeve heads. The lapels are a little 上 the narrow side, in comparison with the classically-balanced lapels 上 the beige gabardine 适合 we see following this 上 e. The jacket has double vents, three buttons 上 the cuffs and flapped pockets. The trousers have a flat front and medium-width straight legs with plain hems.

背心有六个纽扣,底部打开。背心’底部的切口从底部的纽扣孔开始以一定角度切割。

M and the Minister of Defense are also wearing three-piece striped 适合s, in navy worsted and brown flannel, respectively.

冰蓝色棉质薄纱是一种高捻通风半透明面料,由弗兰克·福斯特(Frank Foster)制成,并有一个大张开领子,一个前门襟和一个带有超大纽扣的圆形单纽扣袖口。砖红色领带的光泽暗淡,像是重复领带,而且整齐地打成四手结。这双鞋是黑色皮革围裙套脚便鞋。邦德带着一身带黑丝带的中型灰色毡帽进入办公室。即使该服装的所有元素都不匹配,但一切都以最经典的方式完美地融合在一起。

注意袖带上的超大按钮。
注意袖带上的超大按钮。

33条评论

  1. (以我最拙见!)这是道格拉斯·海沃德(Douglas Hayward)作为裁缝大师的技能以及罗杰·摩尔(Roger Moore)出色的服装品味的完美范例。

    马特,只是一个问题。是什么使绳条与粉笔条区分开?我假设的条纹结构看起来像别针或粉笔条纹一样不均匀?另外,这也许是我经常看电影的媒介的品质-但我会以为领带的颜色是酒红色/酒红色。砖不是更多是带有棕色的红色吗?

  2. 完美的英语剪裁完美典范。我喜欢它。很难想象比这更永恒,更经典的合奏。
    我有一个小问题要问,请不要’不要写关于小丑的衣服!那’真的是我唯一要做的’就像章鱼一样,即使有男主角确实开始展现自己的年龄,它也有损于邦德电影的特色。

  3. 我一直很期待这个。它总是令我印象深刻,是1980年后摩尔定律中最经典,最讲究英语(同时避免产生情感或浮躁)的,这对邦德去白厅和苏富比时的衰老,英语版本非常适合。’s.

  4. I must admit the cut is beautiful. The very low button stance of the jacket and the lapel roll first made me think it was a two-button 适合, like the chalkstriped in FRWL. A much more elegant outfit than the 上 e he wears in AVTAK when meeting M & Co.
    顺便说一句,马特,有摩尔’s Bond ever worn a (light) grey 2-piece glen plaid 适合 ? To me, it could be added to the Bond essentials, but I wonder if he has.

      • 衬衫& tie combination, a little too matchy but especially the shirt. Looks like Moore is trying to imitate Gordon Gekko. And the 适合 itself is great but grey flannel don’就我而言,根本不适合那种衬衫。

      • Le Chiffre ,戈登·格科(Gordon Gekko)角色在摩尔发生两年后出现在屏幕上’天鹅之歌,饰演Bond。这类衬衫在城市类型中一直很受欢迎(摩尔在1970年出演的《鬼鬼屋》(The Man Who Haunted Himself)中,1971年在《说服者》(Persuaders)中,在1975年在《 Street People》中脱颖而出,并在1981年首次成为《邦德在你眼中》。涉及的两个电影角色’s a “chicken and egg”题。我个人一直很喜欢这些衬衫和摩尔’s Foster版本是特别好的例子(正如Matt指出的AVTAK衬衫和领带配色方案Moore一样),但很公平,每个人都很适合自己。

  5. Thanks, I was looking forward to your coverage of this 适合, Matt. One of my favorites! Are you sure about the shirt color, though? It certainly looks light blue in the screeshots here, but I had always thought it was white.

  6. 马特,这条领带我会吗’我刚刚在E湾买的东西像砖红色吗?卖方称它为“copper” but isn’t 铜 more brown with a red cast whereas I would describe brick red as red with a brown cast. Thanks.

  7. 这是罗杰·摩尔(Roger Moore)’邦德任职期间唯一的三粒扣西装?当我说“suit”我的意思是当他穿衬衫和领带时。我知道Pierce Brosnan和Daniel Craig’s 适合s are 95% 3 button. The 3 piece 适合s that 乔治·拉岑比 wears to the office are 3 button. 蒂莫西·道尔顿 also wore a 3 piece 适合 with a 3 button jacket. I know that Connery wore 3 button tweed jackets in Diamonds are Forever, but then again, he wears them with casual shirts and no tie. It’s pretty much impossible to find a 适合 other than this 上 e that has 3 buttons for either Connery or Moore. Is this the lone 3 button 适合 according to my terms for both Connery and Moore combined, or are there 适合s that they wear with 3 buttons? Why is it that both Connery and Moore wore very few 3 button 适合s?

    • 罗杰·摩尔 wears three 适合s with three buttons in his three films in the 1980s. He wears them 上 ly in London for a more formal and traditional look. Anthony Sinclair preferred button two 适合s, even though button three 适合s were more popular in the 1960s in England. Sinclair may have felt that button two jackets looked better 上 Connery’s athletic physique, and they did indeed emphasise it. Fashion trends are why Bond wore button two 适合s in the 1970s.

  8. 关于衬衫袖口的有趣细节。看起来不错,并没有真正引起人们的注意。绝对比Lapidus袖口有所改善。

  9. 这种灰色令人困惑。我有中灰,木炭灰和中灰,但我仍然可以’与该颜色匹配。我认为它’重要的是要搭配灰色,因为我认为这件衬衫和领带的颜色搭配非常完美。

  10. 有趣的是,穆尔如何逐渐过渡到越来越简单的衬衫袖口设计。 “章鱼”和“杀戮观”中的衬衫袖口是否相同?

  11. I adore three piece 适合s. My favorite out of the three is M’s blue striped 适合. I personally prefer blue stripe 适合s and this 上 e looks great. I have two questions.

    1.是M’s 适合 the same 适合 at the end of the film, and what pair of shoes do believe is paired with the 适合?

    2.您是否认为他戴着牙套或侧面调节器?

    • 我认为罗伯特·布朗’s M wears a similar three piece 适合 上 杀人执照, 上 ce he notices Moneypenny’s concerns for Bond. I know you mentioned that the grey 适合 was not special enough to cover, so perhaps this could be an alternative. Considering I do noy believe that you ever covered any of his business 适合s, this example would be a good 上 e to write 上 .

  12. Just wondering with a 3 piece 适合; the 适合 jacket is not buttoned in this photo, but would it be a faux pass if it was buttoned? 在 金手指 , The country 适合 in M’s office was buttoned while wearing the waistcoat, but in the famous 金手指 适合 it remained unbuttoned. Would this rule about buttoning when wearing vest still be followed today?

    • 在 金手指 , Connery wears the grey glen check 适合 jacket both open and buttoned. There’s no rule that the jacket of a three-piece 适合 should be worn open. You can wear it either way. As a personal preference, I think that when wearing a three-piece 适合, a button-two jacket looks better closed while a button-three jacket looks better open.

  13. I was wondering Matt with this 3 piece 适合 do you think Bond is wearing a belt with it? I know that in the previous film the 3 piece 适合 is worn with a belt and all of the 2 piece 适合s in this film are as well. However, do you think that this is the same for this 适合 in this film? Still a great example of 罗杰·摩尔 dressing well as James Bond!

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