什么是精纺羊毛?

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牛津字典 有两个定义“worsted”. 的 first describes 精纺 yarn: “用精梳长绒毛纺出的细腻光滑的纱线。” 的 second describes 精纺 fabric: “Fabric made from 精纺 yarn, having a close-textured surface with no nap.”精纺可用于指代由这种纱线制成的织物中的任何一种羊毛纱,但这是织物的非常笼统的术语。

精纺羊毛通常被认为是一种细腻,光滑的羊毛织物,没有明显的质感,但并非总是如此。人们谈论精纺羊毛西装的布料时,’通常谈论的是平纹或平斜纹织物,例如serge或prunelle,但术语“worsted wool”仅靠编织本身并不能指定编织,重量或最适合的用途。“Worsted wool”仅描述了织物的羊毛类型,根据织造和后整理的不同,羊毛最终可能以多种形式出现。

Worsted yarns contrast with woollen yarns, which are carded rather than combed and fuzzier than 精纺 yarns. Woollen yarns are used for flannel, tweed, melton, knitwear and felt.

精纺羊毛 can be made up into many different cloths, which may be appropriate for suits, jacket and/or trousers. 的 following cloths, categorised by weave, are just some of the common forms of 精纺羊毛.

平纹

平纹编织是最基本的编织类型,而最基本的精纺布是用这种编织制成的。这是一种简单的编织。它几乎没有纹理,是最透气的编织类型。它可用于天气温暖的西服和裤子,通常用于成衣的晚宴服和燕尾服。小支票经常用平纹机织而成。

热带羊毛

肖恩·康纳利(Sean Connery)穿着灰色热带羊毛西装 钻石恒久远

热带羊毛 is a loosely woven plain-weave 精纺 in a light weight. It makes for good summer suits and trousers, though basic tropical wool wrinkles more than other 精纺s.

高捻羊毛

当精纺纱线的捻度比平常高时,即使在重于热带的纱线上,纱线之间也可以留有更大的空间,从而具有更大的透气性。高捻纱也不会’像普通的热带羊毛一样起皱。这种精纺常被称为“Fresco”,是Hardy Minnis的注册商标,但该术语通常被广泛使用。它是制作出色的夏季西装,裤子和西装外套的最佳选择。

霍普萨克

罗杰·摩尔(Roger Moore)身穿海军霍普萨克外套 爱我的间谍

霍普萨克 is a 精纺羊毛 in a basketweave, where multiple yarns pass over 上 e or more yarns in a group. It makes for a textured and airy fabric, and it is commonly used for blazers and sometimes for suits and trousers. Fine checks are often woven in a hopsack weave.

斜纹

斜纹是斜纹罗纹编织家族,这些罗纹被称为“wales”. A twill 精纺 usually is a right-hand twill, with the ribs pointing up to the right. It is also known as a “Z”斜纹,字母后’s diagonal stroke.

哔叽

罗杰·摩尔(Roger Moore)穿着Serge绳索条纹西服 章鱼

One of the most standard 精纺 cloths is serge, which is woven in an even twill with a 45-degree wale 上 both sides of the cloth. This is commonly used for suits, blazers, trousers and military uniforms. In heavy weights it is used for coats. Sometimes it is woven with both 精纺 and woollen yarns, but typically it is all 精纺.

拾毛器(也称为鲨鱼皮)具有精巧的图案,可使其具有独特的外观,但不是独特的编织或独特的纤维制成。该图案在经纱和纬纱中交替使用对比色的纱线,因此近距离观察时看起来就像是台阶在下降。从远处看,对比色使布料看起来呈虹彩或斜线阴影。最好用于西装。

可以将许多其他图案用纱布编织起来,例如钉头,绳索条纹,千鸟格花纹,牧羊犬花纹和Glen Urquhart花纹。

精纺法兰绒

肖恩·康纳利 wears a navy 精纺 flannel suit in 来自俄罗斯的爱

精纺法兰绒 is a 精纺羊毛 (usually in an even twill weave like serge) with its surface brushed to resemble a fuzzy woollen flannel. Compared to woollen flannel, its 精纺 cousin is more durable and can be woven in lighter weights, but woollen flannel is the more genuine type with a more interesting texture and wears warmer in cold weater. James Bond typically prefers his flannels in woollen rather than 精纺.

夏枯草

夏枯草 is a smooth 45-degree twill with ribs 上 上 e side, commonly used for suits and trousers. This is 上 e of the standard 精纺 cloths.

华达呢

晒黑西装的看法
罗杰·摩尔 wears a tan 精纺 gabardine suit in 一杀必杀

华达呢 is commonly made of either 精纺, cotton, polyester, or blends of any of these fibres. In any case it is a durable tightly woven steep twill that is made in light to moderately heavy weights. It is good for trousers and suits.

骑兵斜纹

肖恩·康纳利(Sean Connery)穿着浅褐色的骑兵斜纹布长裤,搭配他的粗花呢黑客夹克 金手指

A steep double twill, cavalry twill is a heavy and hard-wearing cloth. It is best used for trousers. Sometimes it is woven with both 精纺 and woollen yarns.

鞭绳

鞭绳是沉重的,耐磨的斜纹布。与骑兵斜纹相比,它只有一条肋骨。用于裤子,面漆和偶尔的西服。

人字形

丹尼尔·克雷格(Daniel Craig)身穿黑色固体人字纹西装 幽灵

人字形是鲸鱼将方向反转的斜纹,看起来像是断的锯齿形。以上任何布料都可以用作人字形的基础,尽管斜纹布(例如serge)也是最常见的人字形基础。与常规的固体斜纹布相比,在人字形西装中可以增加人字形编织的外观,而不改变耐磨性。人字形布料通常在经纱和纬纱中用不同的颜色编织,以强调编织中固有的图案,使西服看起来略带运动感。

其他编织

鸟眼

皮尔斯·布鲁斯南 wears a navy birdseye suit in 黄金眼

鸟眼 is a specific weave used with 精纺羊毛 that can create the birdseye pattern, which is small dots 上 a diagonal repeat. Is best used for suits.

巴拉特亚

皮尔斯·布鲁斯南’s穿着一件午夜蓝色的Barrathea晚餐服 明天是崭新的一天.

巴拉特亚 is a 精纺 with a pebbled appearance, woven in a hopsack twill weave. Traditionally it was a heavy weight but now can be found in light weights. It is used for more formal clothes such as dinner suits, tailcoats and morning coats. Also spelled 巴拉提亚.

精纺混纺

丹尼尔·克雷格 wears a 精纺羊毛, mohair and silk-blend suit in 幽灵

精纺羊毛 can be blended with other fibres, such as mohair, silk, cashmere or cotton. James Bond commonly wears 精纺 and mohair blended suits, which are usually woven in a plain weave. Many of his fancier suits and dinner suits are made of 精纺 and mohair blends.

8评论

  1. I thought fresco specifically referred to an open plain weave made of a high twist blend of wool, silk, and cashmere or wool, silk, and mohair, not any open plain weave made from high twist 精纺.

    • 壁画 can be made with any yarn or combinations of yarns, depending 上 what was looked for. 的 term “Fresco”更像是商标,其编织本身实际上是平开编织。即便如此,当涉及到高捻纱线的平纹编织时,羊毛仍能胜过其他许多羊毛。

  2. 马特 thanks for another great 文章, my question is —- is 精纺 correctly pronounced worr-sted or woo-sted? I hear both, but think the latter might be right

      • 啊,谢谢马特。我是英国人,但我曾经说过wer-stead,但是我在《 生死存亡》有声读物中注意到Rory Kinnear念出这个词时就放下了r。对非rhotic口音很感兴趣,这不是我所熟悉的概念。

  3. 马特

    我看到您在谈论羊毛纱用于法兰绒,花呢和其他东西。法兰绒和花呢之间的主要区别是什么?纱线是如何编织的?有一套西装’s Bond穿着您标识为蓝色的人字形法兰绒西服。为什么会是法兰绒而不是花呢?一如既往的感谢。

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